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6030 AIR CONDITIONING

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landon

04-19-2002 05:17:17




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WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO RUN THE AIR ON A 6030? IS IT COOLER TO RUN THE RECIRCULATED AIR THROUGH OR FRESH AIR COMING IN? WHICH WAY IS EASIER ON THE COMPRESSOR?




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G Taylor

04-19-2002 21:43:00




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 Re: 6030 AIR CONDITIONING in reply to landon, 04-19-2002 05:17:17  
With the cab fan on slow there will increase the tendency for the evaporator to ice if the system is borderline. High humidity hot air will load the system more than cooling dry hot air. If on re-circ it will likely mix about 25% fresh air with 75% cooled/dried air from in the cab. Clutch wear will be increased if cooling loads are modest & the system is constantly short cycling. Best just to set it the way you want it to feel & enjoy without worrying. As for the wee bit of extra fuel AC uses who cares, be comfortable.

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Clooney

04-19-2002 11:52:02




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 Re: 6030 AIR CONDITIONING in reply to landon, 04-19-2002 05:17:17  
Landon, I presume if you are running the A/C you want it cooler inside the cab than the outside air. An A/C system is basically just a heat pump that removes heat from one place & transfers it to another place. In your case from inside the cab to out side the cab.
~The less heat it has to move, the easier it is on the pump (compressor) so to answer your question, it would be easier on the system to use the recirculate mode as the air inside is already cooler than the fresh & warmer outside air. ~Now that being said, there probably isn�t enough difference in either mode to make any difference on the durability of the system. ~The biggest threat to an A/C system is lack of use for extended periods of time, or plugged condenser, or lack of air flow to the condenser, or lack of maintenance on the system.
~There are advantages to using outside air as the outside air is always fresh & using outside air can help if there is a carbon monoxide leak into the cab. The other advantage is that using outside air kind of slightly pressurizes the cab. to help keep dust from entering the lower cab area.

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G Taylor

04-19-2002 10:13:00




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 Re: 6030 AIR CONDITIONING in reply to landon, 04-19-2002 05:17:17  
What is the outside ambient air temp/humidity & how cool do you keep the cab? Is the system R-12 or 134A converted? What rpm does the engine usually operate at? What blower fan speed is the cab fan operated at?



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LANDON

04-19-2002 10:37:23




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 Re: Re: 6030 AIR CONDITIONING in reply to G Taylor , 04-19-2002 10:13:00  
I JUST GOT THE TRACTOR. A NEW AIR CONDITIONING UNIT WAS PUT ON IT LAST YEAR. I WANT TO THE TEMPERATURE BEARABLE ENUFF TO STAY INSIDE THE TRACTOR ON ABOUT A 90 DEGREE DAY. AS FAR AS WHAT KIND OF COOLING SYSTEM IS ON I CAN NOT RECALL OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD, BUT ON THE COMPRESSOR IT SAYES IT IS EQUIPPED WITH A SPECIAL LEAK DETECTION DEVICRE THAT CAN BE SEEN WITH A BLUE LIGHT. IN THE MANUAL IT SAYES FOR MAXIMUIM COOLING RUN THE RECIRCULATED AIR. WHICH IS THE BEST WAY TO KEEP COMFORTABLE THAT WOULD BE THE EASIEST ON THE COMPRESSOR, RUNNING RECIRCULATED AIR OR FRESH AIR? I WILL BE RUNNING THE BLOWER ON LOW. I APPRECIATE YOUR RESPONSE MR. TAYLOR AND ANY OF YOUR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKS AGAIN

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G-MAN

04-19-2002 17:23:20




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 Re: Re: Re: 6030 AIR CONDITIONING in reply to LANDON, 04-19-2002 10:37:23  
Landon, more than likely your system has been converted to R134-A refrigerant, which is more environmentally friendly than the R-12 it replaced. We convert a lot of older tractors (30 series on up" to R134. My experience with these conversions has varied widely. I've seen some systems cool very well, while others are just adequate. I have yet to see a converted system cool as well as an R-12 system in good condition. I think it's just the nature of the beast. We usually just change the expansion valve, receiver-drier; flush out the lines with alchohol and replace the compressor if needed and we don't usually have any trouble. We have been using the UV refrigerant (for leak testing) a lot lately as it makes finding leaks a lot easier. Clooney is right about running the system on recirculation to get colder air. I don't know how a 6030 system is set up for sure, but if the air doesn't seem cold enough, check the air duct temp at which the compressor turns off - sometimes the thermostatic switch can be adjusted down some to give a little colder evaporator temb before kicking the compressor off. Don't go below 32 degrees though, as this can lead to ice forming on the evaporator and a total loss of cooling. Air duct temps vary greatly with differences in systems, system charge, ambient temp, condensor and evaporator airflow, humidity, etc. If you get about at least a 30 degree drop from ambient temp, you're probably doing okay. That's about what I shoot for, although cooler is always better. I once saw a R134 system in a Cat 613C scraper cool to 19 degrees at the air duct at 80 degree ambient temp, but that is definitely the exception, not the rule.

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