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John Deere D questions

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Sue

04-19-2002 01:13:23




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Hi,

Trying to get a D running for parade on Saturday, and I have a couple of questions for an expert (or even half an expert)

Last time the tractor ran, it experienced fuel trouble. I removed the carb, chem dipped it, blew out all the ports, and ordered a kit to be here tomorrow am. Fuel lines, bowl, and tank were cleaned out. Plan on installing an in-line fuel filter.

The last carb I saw with so many adjustment screws on it was on my 1979 Honda Accord! I hope that they are not all "adjustment" screws. One is actually labeled "idle adjusment" so I am halfway there. Anyone have any tips on setting the carb correctly after a rebuild? or will the kit (from JD dealer) have this info?

One other question... this tractor has been sitting outside, so the transmission probably has water at the bottom and will have to be drained. I couldn't find a fill level plug (it was dark, dirty, and all I had was a drop light and not a lot of patience at that time of night). Is there a fill level plug for the transmission case, or how much oil do I put in? Where is the fill level plug? I thought for sure it would be on the right or left side, but I sure couldn't see it... unless it is a recessed plug not a regular square plug... hmmmmm.

Any help will be terrific. I have a lot of great memories driving this tractor several years ago, and look forward to starting it up again tomorrow. What a great sound this tractor makes!

Oh yeah... I think this is a "newer" D. I can get the SN if it's important.

-Sue

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Clooney

04-19-2002 03:30:27




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 Re: John Deere D questions in reply to Sue, 04-19-2002 01:13:23  
Sue, the carb really should have all the brass plugs removed & a stiff wire [or small drill bits] run through all the passages behind those screws, including the carb vent & idle orifice holes in the side of the throttle bore by the throttle plate [inside the throttle bore]. Maybe you will get lucky, but dipping the carb body & blowing the passages out seldom is enough on a cast body DLTX.
~I don't have the specs on your carb in front of me, but if you start with the idle screw backed out 1-1/2 turns from seated & the load screw backed out 2-1/2 turns from seated it should start & run good enough there. After it warms up set the idle screw to best idle & the load screw so it takes the throttle good & doesn't backfire or blow black smoke. (you can fine tune it under load later, but you want it to run smooth & take the throttle good for parade duty)
~The trans fill plug is on top of the �rear most� big tin cover with all the bolts around it, on top of the trans/rear end. There isn't a fill level plug & the level is measured by inserting a stick in the fill hole & measuring the level at the deep part [in line with the big sprockets]. I think the level should be about 5" & it holds around 7 gallons. I always put just 5 gallons in my D�s as that is plenty for flat ground & play duty & the old D's are much less prone to leakage at the axle to trans case mating area with a little lower fill level�.
~Good luck & have fun in your parade ���..

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Sue

04-19-2002 12:24:47




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 Re: Re: John Deere D questions in reply to Clooney, 04-19-2002 03:30:27  
Hi again,

Thanks so much for the advice... I cleaned some more stuff out of the ports. Looking forward to changing transmission oil tonight.

I have one trouble spot with the carb: the cap/nut underneath the bowl that holds the bowl up against the throttle body. There isn't very much room there for a gasket to fit between that cap/nut and the bottom of the bowl. I installed the one gasket in the kit that was the right inside & outside diameters, but it was so thick that the cap couldn't capture more than about a thread.

I wasn't the one who took off the bowl, so I don't know if there was a gasket there to start with.

I'm going to go ahead and make my own gasket out of a thin sheet of cork. Do you have another idea?

-Sue

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Clooney

04-19-2002 16:54:34




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 Re: Re: Re: John Deere D questions in reply to Sue, 04-19-2002 12:24:47  
Sue, making a thin gasket would be a good way to go.
~Be very careful when installing & tightening that bowl nut as the threaded casting strips & breaks easily & is very hard & expensive to repair.....



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