How to mask tires and rims ?

I'm getting ready to paint a rim with tire mounted on it. Wondering if anyone has any tricks thay have used that might beat that time honored task of using masking tape and paper.

Open to any new ideas !

Thanks,

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

If you don't need/want to remove the tires, this is a slick way to do a good job on the visible portion of the rim.

Did you have an issue with my question ?

I appreciate all the different points of view. Proves there are more than one way to skin a cat.

Frank

THE Correct Police.

Have you ever changed a tire on a manure spreader in the winter ?

Now there's a tough one. We used to back the "A" rear wheel up on them to break the bead loose !

F-I-T

I would much rather have one of each 530,630,730,830 that were marginal restorations than one 530 that had been completely disassembled, every component sandblast or hot tanks or cleaned to the bare metal and then had all of the best and most accurate rebuilding/painting etc. You would have that a truck load of money and time stuck in that 530 and where do you stop. I have sold 12 old tractors that I have been fixed up in the last year. All of them have been fixed up/restored to different levels. I have never listed one of them as restored. Restored is just to wide open. All the buyers were happy with what the purchased. Yes I would love to have a shed full of tractors that were just mint. But my pockets are not that deep. What I do have though I do consider to be restored, but I would never sell one of them that way because that is just my opinion. Yes I was the correct police post. The whole time I wrote it I was smiling and intended it in a friendly fashion of rib - joke. I wish you and every one else that might have been offend the best and keep up the good work because someday I am going to need one of those rims you painted.

LJS

LJS

Take care.

LJS

I understand what you are saying, but I also know that in the six months I have been working on this project, I have never used the term restoration.

I'm rebuilding and or refurbishing this tractor and hope it's green where it's supposed to be, and yellow where it's supposed to be, with no oil dripping, spewing, spraying, or burning.

It might get new tires, but that will probably be way down the road. The rims were painted inside when I put those tires on it in 1971. No fluid since, new tubes with the tires.

I'll probably have it scratched and nicked here and there before too long, but I intend to have a great time listening to it do the little bit if work I'll have for it. The next project is to rebuild the 45W loader for it now laying out in the yard.

BTW, Clooney, several puffs of baby power in the tire, and it won't stick to the paint.

Thanks for the tip on the DuPont code. I bought some today, and so far I think it will do just fine.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

I looked but could not find galvanized roof shingles. Where did you find them ? Any national chain store hopefully ?

Frank

Works good for me.

You mean like a good quality drop cloth plastic sheet ?

F-I-T

The advantages I find in this approach is

1. Quick Installation time, once the tin is cut it takes less than five minutes to mask a rear tire on a tractor. I have a box of tin that is cut and I just pull the box out and with in minutes I have the tire masked and masked well.

2. You can wet sand after installation to the tin masking. With masking tape if you need to wet sand you either end up with water in your paint due to the fact it held up in between tape somewhere, or reinstalling the masking tape. With the tin you can wet sand wash it down with a hose, then blow it off with and air hose and a little drying time you are ready to paint again.

3. Painting the lip of the rim. The tin makes a nice backdrop and you can spray at any angle you want and not worry about over spray on the side of the tire.

4. Clean up of over spray, there is little to no over spay on the tries and if there is you an work on it with solvent without worrying about it getting on the paint due to the fact the tin acts a shield. When I used the method of masking back 2" with masking tape and then cleaning any over spray of after you painted. I always ended up with a little dirt of some lacquer thinner getting on the new paint and off course the whole time you are cleaning that over spray you are just making more dust that gets on that finish you worked so hard to get that is not dry yet.

5. Removeval- Once the paint has dried, deflate tire, remove tin and re inflate. You are done in minutes and you do not have tape stuck to the bottom of your shoe.

6. Re usable- If you are going to paint more than one tractor this works great.

If you are just painting a tractor that is going to be back in the field next week, I would use the paint it and clean it up after with solvent trick. But if this is something you want to look like it just rolled of the factory. This is the way to go I feel. Take a look at some of the tractors I have painted by using the link below or going to photos on this site and then searching for Stallbaumer. I am learning with each one and people on this board have helped me greatly.

LJS

• Photos on this Site

It is real hard to roll a 38" tire around with masking tape and plastic wraped around it without it comming off plus wet sanding just dont work with masking tape and plastic.

With the flashing you put it in and you can prime/wet sand/finish coat and roll it to town an back and never have to screw with the masking becuase it fell off or has water or sanding dust traped in it.

I am not trying to tell anyone that another way is wrong. I have tried everything from grease to the best masking tape and plastic in the last year. This realy worked exceptionaly well for me on this last project.

Enough said I will leave the issue rest.

LJS

Great ideas, and great looking Tractors !

What paint did you use ?

I'm especially interested in the yellow. My PPG dealer can't even come close to my original quart of JD leaded paint. I know that's the right color for me, but I'm at a loss.

I like the idea of the flashing, I just have to go find some.

Thanks for you reply !

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

LJS

Thanks for the info.

I doubt mine will be a show piece, I'm just trying to get everything green ! so far the acrylic enamel has been pretty easy to work with. I use a respirator, and have a fresh air system, too. I have to paint in small amounts in a confined garage area, and that really hampers the progress, since I'm doing continous mechanical repairs along with layer by layer of painting. I hope to build a shop next year. I'm going to have to clean very well before I can put on the finish coats of green on the entire tractor.

I did find the yellow today, but I had to go with Dupont, which is alright with me...it's cheaper, too !

Maybe I can get that wheel center yellow tomorrow...weather is supposed to be great.

F-I-T

They mixed some of the 2612 in acrylic enamel (their computer says it's a Dodge truck color ), and I put a few drips on the outside of a laquer thinner can I had primed with epoxy, buff, then the leaded yellow from JD.

It looks verrrrry close to me, and so I bought two quarts, and have the first two coats on the wheel center.

I'll take another look at it tomorrow, and see if the color is acceptable. I think it will be.

Frank-i-T

Digital images aren't always the best regarding color.

If you look at the right upper edge, you'll see my daughter's new Belgian, and two of her paints.

Who said old tractors are the only expensive hobby !

F-I-T

I just went out and checked it, and it's looking pretty nice.

It'll get a lot of sun down here. I hope it holds up good as far as bleaching. Most of the yellows turn kind of white in a realtively short time.

It's got two good coats on it...probably too heavy on the second coat...it just about started to run, so I stoppped, and figured if it needed more it would have to be tomorrow.

I'm really learning alot about the different temperatures of the reducers !

F-I-T

One of the problems I see is that this PPG reducer doesn't give a temperature range anywhere on the can. The guys just sell me what they think I should be using depending on the general weather in the forecast. By now I have about three different types.

Maybe I should ask for a pamphlet that describes the reducer's operating range.

H-m-m-m-m-m-m-m-m...?

F-I-T

DTR series, # 601, 602, and 604...called Cool, Medium, Hot temperatures. I went to a page with PPG msds's and product sheets, but those boiling points seemed awful high. Like Cool was 83* and up, and Medium and Hot were both 133* and up.

They are described as Cool shop, Normal Shop and Heated shop.

F-I-T

Jim

That's what I've been needing.

I better gripe at my buddy and get him to cough up some tech sheets for me.

Yeah, these new cans of mine are in French, too. They must add it to their wine...

Thanks again Jim.

F-I-T

• Masking

Binder-Man

Just things to think about.

I didn't say timely, I said time-honored, meaning the most prevalent method practiced in the past.

You must be pretty good at masking tires, because if I could be done in a few minnutes, I'd be there. I just dread the thought of masking 38" tires.

I'll probably have to do it that way anyway, but there are some interesting ideas coming out here, and I appreciate all of them.

Now if I could just find the right shade of yellow !

Thanks !

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

I deflated the tire, used a putty knife to simply push news paper between the tire and rim. After your done one side remove the paper, flip it over and repeat.