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Bruce: I'll start this out, and somebody with a better idea can jump in later. Remove the clutch cover. Remove the large bolt and washer in the end of the crankshaft .
Remove the three cotter pins from the castellated nuts.
Remove the castellated nuts.
Remove the cast outer clutch ring. Lay it face down, top away from you.
Remove the outer clutch facing, lay it down on the cast ring the same way (it's an old trick...so it all goes together in the same orientation as you removed it. Might not be critical, but it can't hurt).
Identify the "V" marks on the clutch disk and crankshaft. If you can't find the marks, make two of your own, as the disk is counter weighted and must go back on in the proper orientation, or severe vibration can and most likely will, result.
Remove the driving disk from the crankshaft using two 1/2" (if I remember correctly) bolts with square nuts ? (this depends in the design, and year). If it's a high serial number "A", there could be an additional floating clutch disk in there.
Remove the inner clutch facing. Now I'm really relying on memory, but I think you have a four bolt cover on the front edge of the first reduction cover where the clutch operating fork goes through. Remove this plate and the fork assy.
Remove the nuts and bolts that are around the circumference of the pulley.
Slide the pulley off of the crankshaft. Now before you do any of this, you might want to ask about how that much oil can get up in there. That pulley only sets on the crankend with a ball bearing and a bushing, and there might be something else (like a loose main bearging ?)that is causing oil to backup in the first reduction gear cover that might be the real culprit. Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855
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