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Well, I can report that I have the left wheel off, the wedges out and soaking in the electrolysis bath, and the frozen pinion bolt/gear out of the wheel. I think I might have a modified method, for those of you that have access to some air tools. Here's what I did: Pre-oiled everything. I used my old flushing diesel fuel/motor oil mix. It's cheap and I put it in a squirt oil can. Loosened both inner and outer wedge bolts, just so everything can break free when it's ready. Tightened jack bolts. I had freed these up previously, so I knew they would turn. When the jack bolts bottomed out, I used my 1/2" cheapie air impact wrench to bump them in one at a time. I tapped lightly with a 3# hammer the bolts that thread into the wedge all the while the air hammer was bumping on one then the other jack bolts. After about 2-3 minutes of letting the air hammer thump on the wedge, it moved, and I was able to remove it from the inside of the wheel. The pinion gear and bolt(shaft) was frozen tight, so I rotated the wheel and axle 180 deg. so the wheel fell free of the rack. I removed the wheel, rolled it outside, and hung it from my engine hoist so I could get on all sides. I oiled, and warmed the gear and shaft from the inside with only a propane torch, just to get the oil to flow into the rust better. I tried the air impact, and let it hammer for about three minutes, but it would not budge. Then I tapped on the head of the bolt and I saw just a bit of movement, then I used a chisel to try and rotate the gear (I figured if I ruined it I would get another). It seemed that the bolt wanted to slide out, but would not rotate. So, I took my air rivet tool and out a blunt nose driver on it. I put this in the hole opposite the head end, and let it hammer away. I held it in there for a full 2 minutes, just hammering, until it began to move. I squirted some more oil in there, and let it continue to hammer. The darn thing squirted right out. Let's hope the right side has as much sense. Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855
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