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Tim: There are a few easy things that you can try first. On a diesel, fuel flow, air flow, and timing are all you have to solve. Check valve lash, and check that the decompression lever is not holdiong the valves open a tiny bit (rare, but it does happen). Check that the air cleaner is not plugged. That mesh up in there can be caked with years of gook. You can remove the cup and see if it pulls better. I boiled mine out with lye and hot water (a radiator shop can do this, too). Then I power washed the heck out of it. It was amazing how much dirt was uo in there. Sediment bowl screen. Simple, but it can be plugged. Fuel transfer pump. Located on the right hand end of the governor. I had a broken drive slot on the governor shaft, which rendered the pump inoperative, and mine had a marked loss of power. You can check the pressure with the proper fittings and a common oil pressure type gauge. It has a check ball regulator that can hang up. Fuel filters. 1st stage could be plugged, especially if you have gotten a bit of water in the fuel. If it is, change them both (AR44077) Check that the injector pump timing is right on. Does it start well ? Does it run evenly on both cylinders ? Nozzles can and do get plugged, and the injectors are not too tough to remove. You can rig them outside of the head with their tubes and watch that they spray evenly, and stop completely. DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS IN THE SPRAY ! But you probably already know that. Does it smoke a lot when it pulls down ? Again nozzles could be a problem. If you have a book, set the timing, high and low speeds, and the proper rack setting. This all takes time, but it's a lot cheaper than having the pumps and injectors rebuilt ($300 and up for the pair)if they don't yet need it. Let us know how you make out.
Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855
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