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60 headgasket,again

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TL

03-23-2002 13:01:49




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Was using the 60 to grind feed and noticed antifreeze seeping out at the top of the head,this tractor only has about 50 hrs since rebuild.I checked the archives and found some good advice and was wondering what is the chance of retorque to fix,if not what are the torque values and valve settings or any other advice you would have.Also was wondering about the location of the thermostat.I sincerely thankyou for any help.

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TL

03-24-2002 10:42:05




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 Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to TL, 03-23-2002 13:01:49  
I bought the tractor off of a friend shortly after the rebuild,he did most of the work.The tractor runs fine,Ijust wanted to take care of this problem myself.I do appreciate all of your help in getting it going.TL


i



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ChuckW

03-24-2002 07:45:42




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 Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to TL, 03-23-2002 13:01:49  
A few questions:

1. Did you install the head gasket with the proper face out?

2. Was all the surfaces good and clean and your head smooth?

3. Did you torque to the proper values?

4. Did you use the lead washers as prescribed?

If you did all the above and short of a cracked head or block, I see no reason for a leak. I would say thermostatic control would have absolutely nothing to do with the leak at the head area.

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JD675X7

03-24-2002 09:35:16




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 Re: Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to ChuckW, 03-24-2002 07:45:42  
Chuck;
Doesn't sound like you have had the head off of many 60 engimes if you did you would know they are prone to leakege at the sides and top even with the proper torque. A retorque of the head after running it for a while is a must and the use of sealer on the outer edges of the haed gasket goes a long way towards preventing leaks. I have owned and worked on a number of JD 60 tractors and found a hot retorque is a must. The aftermarket composite head gaskets do seem to seal better than the deere metal head gaskets and I try to use them when possible.

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Clooney

03-23-2002 13:37:27




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 Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to TL, 03-23-2002 13:01:49  
Tl, a re-torque of the head would be a real good place to start. If it still leaks after that you can try a little cooling system sealer to see if that helps, if that doesn't stop the leak you will have to pull the head again.
~We will need the serial number & type of 60 you have as the thermostat could be in about 3 different places including the radiator, depending on the S/N & model.
~Head torque is 150' lbs....

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TL

03-23-2002 14:08:04




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 Re: Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to Clooney, 03-23-2002 13:37:27  
SN6007003,sure do appreciate your guys help



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Clooney

03-23-2002 14:32:41




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 Re: Re: Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to TL, 03-23-2002 14:08:04  
TL, on that early of a 60 the thermostat is in front of the lower radiator tank & is supposed to operate a set of shutters in front of the radiator.
~By now most of those shutter systems have been removed or wired open, if it is still there & intact you can use penetrating oil to free it up to see if it works, but I'm not sure you can still find that radiator mounted thermostat & if you do find one it will cost you dearly.

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TL

03-23-2002 15:05:28




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to Clooney, 03-23-2002 14:32:41  
If the thermostat is bad could I run it without one?



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Clooney

03-23-2002 15:17:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to TL, 03-23-2002 15:05:28  
TL, sure, it is done all the time. ~Probably not the best thing for the engine to run cooler than designed, but as I said, most of those shutter systems haven't worked in years & an awful lot of those tractors are still running & working.
~If your system is still intact you should free it up & see if it operates, if the shutter system is still there & you can free it up you could always put a manual control on it.
~If the shutter parts are broken or missing you could always convert it to the later system with the thermostat in the upper radiator pipe. You would need a parts book to cross reference all the parts needed, or just find a complete 60 with the later system & swap the parts needed.

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G-MAN

03-23-2002 13:29:39




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 Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to TL, 03-23-2002 13:01:49  
Cylinder head torque - 150 ft.lbs. - must be retightened after engine is hot, that's probably you're main problem. Valve lash - .022" first, then reset to .020" after engine is hot. You need to have a manual to see the proper torque sequence, but basically start at the bottom center stud, then the top two, and work out from there. I'm not trying to cut you down here, but I cannot imagine working on anything, especially an engine, without the proper manual. If I don't know exactly how to do it, I sit down and read the procedure through at least twice, then follow the book AS I do it. It sure saves a lot of time and rework, and both cost me money when I'm fixing a customer's tractor. Also, I'm pretty sure that heating up the engine means at least 180 degrees, not just running it long enough for the head to feel warm. You'll also have to work quickly onces you start, so have everything ready when you do.
I could be wrong on this one, but it appears that your thermostat will be located in the housing at the top of the upper water pipe, unless you have an LP tractor. EPC is showing me several different cooling system arrangements, depending on serial #, tractor type and fuel type.

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G Taylor

03-25-2002 21:14:35




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 Re: Re: 60 headgasket,again in reply to G-MAN, 03-23-2002 13:29:39  
Last time the 60 head's off, three nuts were found "soft" & wouldn't torque to 150 ft lbs. Part of the cure was all new studs, nuts & hardened washers all coated with cam assembly lube. Loading the tractor hard before the thermostat opens will thermaly shock & twist the castings when cold water does rush into the engine.



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