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Discussion Forum
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Clutch rebuild

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John

03-17-2002 15:51:55




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Hi, I plan on rebuilding my clutch on my JD 60, It's a 1955. Can anyone tell me what parts I should pay close attention to? Right now the clutch has no snap to it when you engage or disengage it. Also when you disengage the clutch it still grabs a little. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks




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Fudd@Work

03-17-2002 22:28:42




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 Re: Clutch rebuild in reply to John, 03-17-2002 15:51:55  
Be sure to mark the clutch drive gear to crank BEFORE removing it as it needs to go back on the same spot. Have fun.



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Frank-in-Tallahassee

03-17-2002 16:34:39




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 Re: Clutch rebuild in reply to John, 03-17-2002 15:51:55  
John:

There are quite a few folks on this board that are very knowledgable about the two banger clutches. A quick route to more information than you could want is to use the search feature above. I just entered " Clutch " and got 2427 hits. Now those include 4020 clutches, 420 clutches, etc. But probably half of them are for your style clutch.

But priimary areas to watch are (in order of ease and likelihood) I think are:

Worn/debonded disks, cracked floater plates or drive disk, pulley brake out of adjustment. Then you can get into the doggles/pins/toggle behind the lining area of the puley. If you can lay your hands on a book, it will really help to understand all the parts and adjustments.
I'm sure others will post back with specifics, but for now, try the search.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

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John

03-17-2002 17:10:57




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 Re: Re: Clutch rebuild in reply to Frank-in-Tallahassee, 03-17-2002 16:34:39  
Thanks for the advice. Frank, I'll check out the search forum. Clooney, I'll tear down the clutch next weekend and check the parts out. Thanks again



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Clooney

03-17-2002 16:12:53




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 Re: Clutch rebuild in reply to John, 03-17-2002 15:51:55  
John, you will have to pay attention to all the parts.
~But some are more problem prone than others, look at the operating sleeve for wear in the 3 "toggle" holes, look at the operating sleeve drive pin hole for oblong wear (it must be a fairly close fit to the drive pin for the toggles to go straight over center), look for wear on the "dogs" where the toggles sit in the seats, look for pin & pin hole wear in the "dogs" & "pulley ears", look for step wear on the 3 adjusting bolts where they go through the pulley holes, look for operating sleeve wear on the pulley casting where it slides, look at the "toggles" for wear but they are usually the last to show wear, look for a "loose on the crank" clutch drive disk (it must be tight on the crankshaft), look for & repair the wear where the fork shaft goes through it's pivot bearings in the bearing assy. (little front cover with 4 bolts holding it on).
~Any wear found or other questions, just post for advice..... ..

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Will-Texas

03-18-2002 02:53:38




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 Re: Re: Clutch rebuild in reply to Clooney, 03-17-2002 16:12:53  
Clooney; how much wear is acceptable on the sleeve/drivepin fit?



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Clooney

03-18-2002 17:56:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Clutch rebuild in reply to Will-Texas, 03-18-2002 02:53:38  
Will, I haven't ever seen a spec. The sleeve should not rotate very far, the farther it rotates the worse the toggles work as they go sideways when they try to go over center. On a worn sleeve pin hole you can usually see an oblong hole forming. If the clutch snaps in good & releases without excess pull on the handle the hole is probably still ok.



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