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Clooney? opinion on manifold?

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blover

03-15-2002 13:41:28




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Bolts on 39 b manifold are rusted almost apart. I would like to replace before repaint How would you go about doing this?? thank You and have a good weekend




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John T

03-15-2002 22:10:12




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 Re: Clooney? opinion on manifold? in reply to blover, 03-15-2002 13:41:28  
If it has studs with nuts, you heat the nuts cherry red and they often come off. However, the manifold is usually stuck/corroded to the studs and it still wont come free. If it has bolts however, heating them just softens them and they twist in two. Where possible with stuck bolts, I heat the head in the area where the threads are embedded and they may come out. You will probably have to break or cut them off then drill them out (be sure and drill in center) and chase/tap the threads. If you have to take the head off, I would go ahead and install new push rod tubes and have the manifold planed smooth. Then I use new hardened studs with anti sieze lube and teflon thread tape in the head and stainless steel nuts and lockwashers on top. That dern fan shaft is right in your way also. Good luck Ol John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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Gord

03-15-2002 17:42:45




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 Re: Clooney? opinion on manifold? in reply to blover, 03-15-2002 13:41:28  
A licensed welder showed me his trick for removing bolts with the least amount of swearing and damage. If possible cut off the heads of the bolts to remove the manifold. Then cut off the bolts about 1/8" to 1/4" above the head. Find a flat washer that fits tightly around the stud. Securely weld the washer to the stud. Then get a nut (any size-preferably larger than the stud but smaller than the outside diameter of the washer).
Set the nut on the washer and tack it on the outside to the washer. Then fill the inside of the nut with weld to the stud and the washer. The heat used to fill the nut and weld it to the stud will heat the offending stud and then the cooling will shrink it. Walk away and have a beverage of your choice then just screw the stud out. I have used this method on numerous bolts and it works incredibly well.

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Steve Smith

03-16-2002 06:59:55




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 Re: Re: Clooney? opinion on manifold? in reply to Gord, 03-15-2002 17:42:45  
This is great stuff. I can't wait to get busy on my next project to give it a try. Thanks, Steve



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Clooney

03-15-2002 14:53:56




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 Re: Clooney? opinion on manifold? in reply to blover, 03-15-2002 13:41:28  
Blover, you could try Bob's method but I haven't had much luck even getting the manifold off by just cutting the bolt heads off if they are rusted in the manifold for many years. ~I usually heat the bolt/stud heads red hot, let them cool a bit then try to remove them, sometimes they come out but I usually end up breaking the bolts/studs off, I then tap on the manifold while using heat to try to free the ones that won't come free of the manifold, then grind the broken bolts/studs flush with the head & drill them out with a L/H drill bit. Caution: use a stop or piece of pipe on the drill bit to limit it's depth to about 3/4 " so you don't drill into the push rod tubes that run just under the manifold bolts. After the bolts are drilled to tap size,S-L-O-W-L-Y chase the threads with a tap to remove the old threads remnants removing the tap frequently to clear the chips.
~Use sealer on the new studs or bolts so they don't weep coolant as the manifold heats up & cools

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Bob K

03-15-2002 14:12:34




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 Re: Clooney? opinion on manifold? in reply to blover, 03-15-2002 13:41:28  
On my 50, I cut the heads off the manifold bolts with a torch and lifted the manifold off, exposing the bolt shank where it goes into the head. I soaked them in penetrant oil for several days, then used the torch to heat and air cool the bolt shank close to where they enter the head. While it was cooling, I took a small pipe wrench and a small hammer and applied torque with the wrench and tapped the top of the shank with the hammer to vibrate it loose. I had to do this 5 or 6 times on each shank before I heard that glorious "tick" of the bolt threads breaking loose in the head. I got all four of them out without breaking/twisting them off and now have them nailed to the wall of my shop as trophies. They were corroded about hlfway through. It took me about 45 minutes per shank. Don't get in a hurry. Let the expansion of the heat and the contraction of the cooling do your work for you. Good luck.

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