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A 1945 John Deere D (seized)

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Daniel N

02-24-2002 07:51:22




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I'm looking at buying a 1945 D that is seized. What kind of things should I look for or expect? How hard would it be to unseize the tractor?




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Larry W.

02-26-2002 06:13:26




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 Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Daniel N, 02-24-2002 07:51:22  
Be careful. too much twisting on the flywheel can bend the crankshaft. If you are not planning on working the tractor, but just driving it in parades, or around the yard, a little pitting won't hurt anything. You can hone the cylinders, and put new rings on, and it will run good and not smoke.



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Andrew from Aust.

02-24-2002 21:25:03




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 Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Daniel N, 02-24-2002 07:51:22  
Hello,

I have recently bought a 1938 model D which was seized. It had a fair amount of surface rust in the bores which I cleaned out. One of the bores has small pits. When I bought the tractor I had factored into it having to have it bored and sleeved. I wanted a D but wasn't prepared to pay big money for a runner and anyway I like a challenge!
Clooney has it right so go in with your eyes open.
Mine came unstuck pretty easily. I had sprayed a bit of diesel around the pistons and let them soak. Using a lump of 3x2 and a small sledge (carefully!) I hit around the edge of the pistons evenly until I saw the joint moving. I did this to both pistons. I could then get a bit of movement when I turned the flywheel by hand. I then cleaned and turned, cleaned and turned patiently.

Anyway my thoughts! Good luck either way!

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Donny-B

02-24-2002 16:24:14




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 Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Daniel N, 02-24-2002 07:51:22  
I just un-stuck a 39 D that was sitting for several years outside with the stack open. Clooney is right about expecting the worse. I bought the tractor "STUCK" and was hopefull that some penetrating oil would loosen her up but...not a chance. Before I attempted to un-stick the engine I filled the cylinders with Kroil(penetrating oil) and let her set for 2 weeks. Then I made a tool with a 5 foot bar to engage into the big holes of the flywheel. Every evening I would try to break it loose but it would not budge. Finally I removed the head and found an inch of rusted gunk in number 1 cylinder. By disconnecting the rod on number 1 I was able to move number 2 to the rear and hone the cylinder so the piston could be removed. I also had to make a ridge reamer to remove the top ridge as to not break the rings on piston removal. To remove the number 1 piston I made a "pusher" that bolted onto the head studs and used a 1"-14 bolt in the center to push on a steel plate that was put against the front of the piston. When the piston was pushed about an inch it was able to be moved to the rear of the cylinder by the flywheel. I honed the cylinder and removed the piston. As it stands I have about 30 hours in tool fabrication and piston removal and still must have the cylinder bored and sleeved. The local machine shop has quoted me a price of $600 to sleeve 1 cylinder. With new gaskets, rings, pins, and bushings, this well exceeds the price I would have spent on a running tractor! I would suggest you look for a running D unless you have a lot of money to invest. Good Luck.

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Clooney

02-24-2002 08:45:17




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 Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Daniel N, 02-24-2002 07:51:22  
Daniel, you won't know what to expect until you get the tractor apart. It could just be light surface rust on the cylinder walls & will free right up. Or more than likely severe rust & pitting on the cylinder walls that will need the pistons pressed out & sleeves installed. ~Buying a seized "D" is always a crap-shoot & the seller usually wins.
~You probably should go into the deal figuring the worst & if it turns out to be in better shape than expected you are ahead on the deal.
~Buying a non-seized tractor is usually (but not always) cheaper in the long run.
~If possible, pull the spark plugs & look for thick scaly rust on the electrodes, then pull the petcocks & look for dry rust on the petcock threads in the cylinder, if either are found, expect the worst. ~If the seller will let you, pull the rocker cover off the front of the head & look for severe rust on the rocker arms & valves, if found expect the worst.
~See if the clutch will operate & the pulley will turn, if not expect the worst.
~Move the fan blade tip to see if the there is any play in the fan/governor gears, if none found, suspect a frozen governor & the worst.
~If the exhaust is open & it was stored outside, expect the worst.
~If it was found in a tree line & sat outside for years expect the worst.
~Pistons, sleeves & cylinders for the "D" are getting expensive & a lot of machine shops don't have the travel in their mill quill to bore the block correctly, so keep that in mind.
~Unless there is something special about that particular D, like wheels, or the s/n, you would probably be farther ahead to buy a running D.
~Unless the tractor is being sold as an estate settlement, of by a non-tractor person suspect the seller knows more about the condition than he is letting on, if it is as easy to un-stick as most sellers try to tell buyers they would have un-stuck it themselves, as it is worth much more un-stuck.....

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Dan D.

02-24-2002 15:11:18




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 Re: Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Clooney, 02-24-2002 08:45:17  
Just wanted to say, great post by Clooney. I'd listen to him, it sounds like he has experience and knows what he's talking about.



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Green Envy

02-24-2002 08:32:39




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 Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Daniel N, 02-24-2002 07:51:22  
I would look to see if it has a water valve and if the fenders and hood are in good shape and if everything is there. Also, beware of chloride in the tires. Usually the rims are rusted through because of that stuff. To get our D unstuck, we disconnected the pistons from the crankshaft and took the block out with the pistons in it. We then used a 4x4 piece of wood and knocked them out of the block.

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Bill Elida Oh.

02-24-2002 11:11:02




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 Re: Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Green Envy, 02-24-2002 08:32:39  
We use to take a plate and weld a pipe on it on the fly wheel holes were fitted with solid shaft and than hung weight on end of pipe appox. 5ft long pipe then though spark plug holes and petcock holes poured penetating oil in and just let it set this isn't the best way to do it but you make your own mind up it sometimes takes awhile hope it works for you we've done a few this way



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Green Envy

02-24-2002 12:49:16




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 Re: Re: Re: A 1945 John Deere D (seized) in reply to Bill Elida Oh., 02-24-2002 11:11:02  
We tried to turn the fly wheel over with a pipe after we put some oil in it and we tried pulling the tractor to get it free. Neither worked so we used the method as I desribed in my earlier posting. We were pretty careful in not damaging the pistons in pounding them out. It doesn't help that the pistons are the size of coffee cans either when they are seized to the cylinder walls.



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