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Clutch and Driver Repair

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khh

02-07-2002 13:32:10




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I have a 45 B with a bad crank spline and driver. It was real loose. A couple years ago I got the bright idea to try JB Weld to repair it. I cleaned up the crank spline and driver real good and applied JB Weld to the crank and driver. That was several years ago. I never expected it to work but had nothing to loose. I could always go back to the old method of shimming it with tin like the old timers did. Anyway I receintly needed to remove it to repair the transmission and I could hardly get it off. I put the bolts in the driver like it is designed to do and the driver wouldn't budge. I applied some heat and that got it off. I guess what I am trying to say is it made a very satisfactory repair. The only trick is that mine had worn so the driver could go on too far. I tightened it as far as possible then loosened the big nut on the crank one turn. Then with the pulling bolts I pulled the driver back out to the big nut. This allowed the clutch to release. I left it this way for two days with a lightbulb on it for a little heat as it is cold and I figured it would harden better with a little heat. It sure beats the cost of welding up and remachining the crank and buying a new driver.

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Dan

02-09-2002 06:05:35




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 Re: Clutch and Driver Repair in reply to khh, 02-07-2002 13:32:10  
khh, you didn't say if you used the tractor much in those two years or not. If I could buy a little time with this type of repair to brush hog this summer it would be great!



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Frank

02-07-2002 19:54:08




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 Re: Clutch and Driver Repair in reply to khh, 02-07-2002 13:32:10  
I was rebuilding the steering in my H The thrust bearing in the bottom of the pedestal had been turning in the housing and the new race was a loose fit. I smeared a little JB Weld in the housing then put the race in. I hope it works. Haven't got it running yet to try it out.



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Tony630

02-08-2002 15:30:11




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 Re: Re: Clutch and Driver Repair in reply to Frank, 02-07-2002 19:54:08  
Frank, depending on whether it is cast steel or cast iron (because I honestly do not know without looking) you could always weld a few beads (little tacks) around where the race sets and smooth them out with a die grinder to tighten the hole. Cast rod for cast iron or mig welder for cast steel. This has worked on several occasions for us. Do NOT weld the bearing race.

Tony



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old bones

02-07-2002 18:29:10




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 Re: Clutch and Driver Repair in reply to khh, 02-07-2002 13:32:10  
did something like that 20 years ago. had a bearing go out on a corn picker and wrecked the shaft. mixed 2 part epoxy and put on the shaft, then slid the new bearing on with the epoxy still liquid (weather was setting in, couldn't wait the 4 days for a new shaft). next day went to picking corn. it was still there when the picker was sold several years later. jb weld (for metal) is stronger than common 2 part epoxy.

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