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JD camshaft timing

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Steven Koser

01-10-2002 19:24:31




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Do any of you good folks have experience with camshaft (valve) timing? I have a 1947 G tore down and in the process noticed that someone had the camshaft to crankshaft timing one tooth early. I wondered about this. So, when I aligned the marks, the timing was now a little late. Which way makes a 2-cylinder run the smoothest? Low end torque and high end torque do not matter to me. Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve

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Clooney

01-11-2002 13:29:09




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 Re: JD camshaft timing in reply to Steven Koser, 01-10-2002 19:24:31  
~Steven, how are you measuring the cam timing? The cam timing isn't as important as the valve timing, I know the cam controls the valves but due to rocker arm, valve stem & lifter wear the cam can be correct & the valves won't open or close at the correct time. ~If you are using the (LH exhaust open) on the flywheel & the L/H exhaust valve to gauge by, be sure the valve lash is set correctly, a feeler gauge isn't close enough on a worn valve train & the use of a dial indicator or better yet (use 1/3 turn open from "0" lash) on the valve adjuster as that gives you real close to .020" & starts from an actual "0" lash because you can tighten the valve until you take all the play out of the valve train then back it up 1/3 turn or 2 flats of the nut.
~A few thousands of an inch difference on the valve lash can make a big difference in cam timing. ~If after all the above you still have a cam timing problem, make sure the flywheel in on correctly & put a pencil in the l/h plug hole & make sure the flywheel is lining up (L/H impulse) when the piston is at the top of the stroke. ~The (LH exhaust open) should be within 1" of the case mark as the L/H exhaust valve is just going to "0" lash, if it isn't then there is something wrong such as wear on the gears or cam. ~You should probably time the cam so it is as close to L/H exhaust open as possible but if it is a wash then early would probably be the way to go for idle & low end run-ability.

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Jerry S

01-11-2002 10:48:23




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 Re: JD camshaft timing in reply to Steven Koser, 01-10-2002 19:24:31  
I am not sure how far you have the tractor apart, but my first thought was changing the camshaft one tooth to make the camshaft in time might have made your governor one tooth off which would need changed now. If you are certain your cam is right with the crankshaft, you will want to time the governor shaft so when the mark on the flywheel shows it time for the left hand impulse, your magneto lugs should be horizontal (9 and 3 o'clock). Then you can adjust the distributor so it hits on time from there.

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Steven Koser

01-11-2002 19:45:32




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 Re: Re: JD camshaft timing in reply to Jerry S, 01-11-2002 10:48:23  
Jerry, thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. Jerry, I do not have the tractor back together yet. I'm tore down enough that I can still change the camshaft timing. I'm Just curious as to other peoples thoughts on which way a JD G will idle the smoothest: With the valve timing a little late or a little early? One other thing. This tractor has the M&W aluminum high compression pistons. I know this throws the balance of the motor off a little. These pistons weigh 6 pounds less per piston than the original. Thanks Steve

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Deere Puller

01-11-2002 10:43:34




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 Re: JD camshaft timing in reply to Steven Koser, 01-10-2002 19:24:31  
For nearly all needs, installing the cam straight-up is what you want to do. If a guy realy wants a different cam profile, have it reground. Also, especially if your tractor is already apart, moving to the late "G" cam is advisable, as it has increased lift & is a real bear to swap once it's all together and looking pretty.



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Steven Koser

01-11-2002 19:55:07




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 Re: Re: JD camshaft timing in reply to Deere Puller, 01-11-2002 10:43:34  
Hey Deere puller, I have another question for you. It sounds like you probably pull these G's so allow me to ask you a question if I may. I have a different 1947 G that has flabergasted me for the 12 years I own it. Carb and Mag are good. Engine is bored .125 and of course has those AP128 pistons in it. I know this slightly unbalances this engine, but this motor is ridiculous. It barely idles, and has a galloping type rythem at higher rpm's with no load. However, under load, this thing is a pulling beast!! It straightens out and goes. I have 55 horsepower at rated RPM. I'm guessing something is not original with the Cam. I want this motor to once again sound like a 2-cylinder. What do you think? Thanks, Steve

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