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Cracked rear wheels on a 60RC

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dave g

12-09-2001 18:16:29




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I've got a theory as to why I've had 3 rear wheel castings (F1500R) crack from the hub outward. When I put them back together I put some never-seize compound on, to prevent them from siezing (like the guy on Rummy's forum). This has worked well on the newer and bigger ones, but I've figured that the old ones aren't strong enough, and I've been able to pull the wedges up too tight. Does anyone agree, or have another theory on this? Cause I REALLY don't need another broken wheel, and this is my best theory yet. Thanks.

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poorerbut

12-10-2001 17:32:27




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 Re: cracked rear wheels on a 60RC in reply to dave g, 12-09-2001 18:16:29  
I think you may be on to something. I get a little nevr-seize happy once in a while and I coated the wedges on the '70 after I finally got them off and working good. Went to move the furrow wheel-jacked it out to paint in around the axel-tightened her down with just the JD wheel wrench- started to walk away and piiiii iinnggg!
She split from the hub out on two sides. After spending $175 and reworking a used F1500R and re-sanding and re-priming and repainting I put nevr-seize back on the hubs and then wiped everything off. Got to thinking exactly what you thought.
I even broke the land wheel down and wiped that stuff off of that wheel, too. Haven't had any trouble since. I think I'll put the nevr-seize on the shelf for a while. pb

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dave g

12-10-2001 19:30:54




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 Re: Re: cracked rear wheels on a 60RC in reply to poorerbut, 12-10-2001 17:32:27  
Just for the axle wedges though. Never sieze is AMAZING for bolting stuff together. I worked on a lawnmower that had one blade never-siezed and the other one was put in dry. Guess which one was harder? I'd go back and wipe it off the wheels I've done, but they've all broken but one...:( I use it on the heavier castings with no trouble at all, but those ones are known for being thin. On the first tractor we thought it was due to stress cracks I found while sandblasting, but after the second it got suspicious.

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poorerut

12-11-2001 05:04:31




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 Re: Re: Re: cracked rear wheels on a 60RC in reply to dave g, 12-10-2001 19:30:54  
I thought I checked REAL close for stress cracks when I re-worked the casting. I took both down to bear metal and spent several days on each. I knew the history of those F1500R's from working on them new at the dealership. I never expected that wheel to split like that. Sounded like a rifle shot ! (I didn't throw the nevr-seize away, but I watch where I use it closer). pb



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Chuck

12-10-2001 10:29:03




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 Re: cracked rear wheels on a 60RC in reply to dave g, 12-09-2001 18:16:29  
just recently was working on my 530 as the rear wheel would creep. Notice that the chocks were not exactly flush so I proceeded to use a 3/4 drive with cheater to tighted. As I got on the bolts good, hear a pop and noticed that the hub had split. Relying on poor memory I realized then that I should have ground the one hub on the inside lift till they would meet flush. Installed another center. Those chocks should meet flush and I would stay away from much never seize and you want be able to keep them tight. But if the chocks arent flush when tight they will be somewhat binding. Good luck.

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Don

12-10-2001 08:43:48




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 Re: cracked rear wheels on a 60RC in reply to dave g, 12-09-2001 18:16:29  
I BELIEVE YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT. I HAVE BROKEN A FEW OF THESE AND THATS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THEY ARE OVER TORQUED. THE 1500R WHEEL IS NOTED FOR THIS AND NOT JUST THE 60'S EITHER . AT ONE TIME DEERE WARRANTED THEM. DON



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dave g

12-10-2001 09:29:46




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 Re: Re: cracked rear wheels on a 60RC in reply to Don, 12-10-2001 08:43:48  
I doubt that warantee is still good! Actually, on of the broken ones is on my 50. They used that wheel on the 50 through 4010 tractors, which would make it seem like they were better. I guess I'm going to have to read that book on cast iron welding....I'll post when/if I get around to attempting welding them....



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