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A Clutch

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charles

11-29-2001 19:43:32




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The belt pulley (the drum that turns when the clutch is engaged) has movement in and out. Is this something I need to fix? Will I be getting in trouble if I take this clutch apart? When I get it apart will I see what parts need to be replaced?




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Clooney

11-29-2001 20:03:04




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 Re: A Clutch in reply to charles, 11-29-2001 19:43:32  
Charles, that movement is normal & is required for the clutch to release & apply smoothly, it shouldn't move in & out when it is engaged though. Only you know if you will get in trouble taking the clutch apart. The clutch on a 2 cylinder J.D. is a pretty simple device & is designed to be serviced by the farmer or owner. As for the parts that need to be replaced, it depends on what it is or isn't doing & how much wear is on the parts. If there is a problem with the clutch post the problem & we will try to help you solve it.

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charles

11-30-2001 04:54:00




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 Re: Re: A Clutch in reply to Clooney, 11-29-2001 20:03:04  
Thanks Clooney. I adjusted the clutch but it dont pop engaging like it does disengaging and the hand lever dont stay forward. I put my foot on it to keep it forward. Should I mailorder the brake pad or buy it local from JD? Next thing to fix is the shifter lever pulling out.



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Jerry S

11-30-2001 13:06:36




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 Re: Re: Re: A Clutch in reply to charles, 11-30-2001 04:54:00  
You might want to check to see that your flywheel isn't loosening itself away from the main case. That can sometimes cause this kind of problem but is usually accompanied by some knocking. I found this out the hard way.



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Clooney

11-30-2001 06:42:07




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 Re: Re: Re: A Clutch in reply to charles, 11-30-2001 04:54:00  
Charles, a lot of 2 cylinder clutches don't snap into engagement but will snap when released after they get some wear on them. If the clutch won't stay engaged then you probably have wear on the "operating sleeve", "toggles", "dogs", "pins/pin holes" or "adjusting bolts" or more than likely all those parts. The parts seem to wear evenly & it is hard to tell what part(s) actually have excessive wear on them without having new ones to compare to. The holes in the sleeve that the "toggles" sit in tend to wear & not let the "toggles" go over center completely so it won't stay engaged. If the clutch is snapping when released it sounds like the toggles are going over center & should stay engaged so start by making sure the adjustment is correct & you have the same tension on all 3 adjusting nuts. The "operating sleeve", "toggles" & "dogs" are quite expensive so you aren't going to want to replace them if you don't have to & depending on how many times you want to take the clutch apart it isn't feasible to try just one set of parts at a time. I have had some success getting older worn 2 cylinder clutch's to stay engaged just by machining .020" from the outer edge of the operating sleeve (the pulley side) to allow the sleeve to move outboard farther during engagement & let the toggles go over center farther, but the operating parts must be in reasonably good condition for this to work & I usually install (I have to make them) larger diameter pivot pins in the dogs & casting ears to get a tight fit & remove slop there..... .As for the pulley brake I personally don't like "clip on" type & usually buy from Deere & drill the rivets out & re-rivet the "lining only" to the brake arm casting.

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