JD 3020 hydraulics

If the hydraulics quit after using them for a while or they quit quickly after you puch in the clutch, you might have a return-to-sump leak. The most likely place this happens is under the rockshaft. Remove the plug on the back of the transmission case above and left of the serial number plate. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole toward the center of the tractor. Above the ring gear is a plate bolted to the bottom of the rockshaft housing. Have someone operate the loader while you look at the plate. If you see oil spurting out from under the plate when a function is used, there is the leak.

If the loader is using a separate valve, the return should be routed to a ported filter cover (T31170 and R66068). Also feel around on the tractor after it has been run for a while--if you find a box or component that is hot to the touch--you have found a potential internal high pressure leak, which heats the oil excessively.

Well, let's see. Start out by changing the hydraulic filters and oil, almost sound like it looses oil. Check for leaks and the proper amount of fluid. Is the tractor a syncro-range or powershift? Not too sure what to tell you, just trying to help. Does the old fluid look burned? Also, those loaders aren't extremely strong since they run off of the tractors hydraulics. My boss has a 3020 with a 46 loader, when it's time to lift heavy round bales; 1 person is running the tractor and moving the valve while the other is pushing up on the round bale to get the loader raised into position. One strong loader on the market is a Bush Hog, a friend has one and it will lift anything, much better than those old JD's but they will cost a lot more. Hope this helps