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Correct Green Paint and Hardner

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Bryan I

11-19-2001 06:25:30




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Just got done sandblasting my H with my new Sullair compressor Friday and Saturday A.M. but that is a story for another time. I've looked at all the advice on paints and am still wondering what to use. I've always used Dupont in the past but should I just buy JD green from the dealer and add hardner? What are your thoughts. I've got some time yet since I need to do some repair work on the fenders and some other parts. Thanks.

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Bryan I

11-20-2001 06:36:49




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 Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to Bryan I, 11-19-2001 06:25:30  
Well, I've decided to go with the Dupont Centari. Does anyone have the number to match it so I can get some mixed up?



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painter

11-19-2001 18:36:26




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 Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to Bryan I, 11-19-2001 06:25:30  
Bryan, I have been in the autobody repair industry for nearly 30 years and have been using hardner in John Deere paint for many years. (Mr Meyer is on the money with MS #8010 from NAPA). I suggest to my customers John Deere paint with hardner is the most bang for the buck unless deep look expo paint is your goal, in that case open your wallet and go urethane with etch primer and a urethane clear for the top coat. No offense to Clooney but his mix and match component theory is the stuff nightmares or made from down the road. Just my opinion.

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BMeyer

11-19-2001 11:50:06




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 Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to Bryan I, 11-19-2001 06:25:30  
I painted a 420 in September 2001 and used JD buff primer and then classic green from JD. I added NAPA hardener #8010. Two weeks ago I took that 420 to a local pull and several folks asked if I had clear coat on the paint. They couldn't beleive it was JD paint. I use a quality HVLP gun, maybe that helped.

Good luck with your paint job and restoration.

BMeyer

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Clooney

11-19-2001 10:52:54




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 Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to Bryan I, 11-19-2001 06:25:30  
Bryan, the acrylic enamel that Dupont or other quality paint manufactures handles is much superior to the synthetic enamel that John Deere sells as far as scratch resistance, fuel resistance, fading & buff-ability (I made that word up), but obviously the cost is higher. In paint you basically get what you pay for & within reason the more you pay the better quality of paint you end up with especially in the UV protection area. There is nothing wrong with J.D. synthetic enamel but it is prone to UV fade if left in the sun for extended periods & scratches rather easily & doesn't rub out worth a darn. I kind of like the J.D. paint though as it looks more like a tractor paint & doesn't look too modern like deep color acrylic or base coat/clear coat. In either case use a hardener for the type of paint you use, synthetic or acrylic (there is a difference & the wrong type won't start the chemical reaction required to harden the paint correctly). I have used many different types of paint & still like the look of J.D. synthetic for an original look, but my best looking as far as a show quality paint jobs is either Dupont Centari or J.D. ag green with a urethane clear coat over it. The only thing is I personally think that kind of shine & color depth belongs on a race car & not a tractor.

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JDGnut

11-19-2001 15:05:48




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 Re: Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to Clooney, 11-19-2001 10:52:54  
Coolney, what kind of harder are you using with the synthetic JD paint. We have always used a PPG harder, but we have bought some NAPA harder, but have not tried it yet. Not that concerned with the brand. I think the PPG harder we used was DXR80. (I can't remmeber if it was Urethane Hardener.) On your clearcoat, are you using a harder?? And how log before you are applying your clear. sorry for all the ????
JDGnut
Bryan

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Clooney

11-19-2001 16:09:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to JDGnut, 11-19-2001 15:05:48  
JDGnut, lately I have been using Autobody Master Synthetic #8132 hardener but have used NAPA #8010 in the past I can't see any difference. You want to make sure the hardener can says "synthetic" or all you are buying is real expensive reducer. Using the wrong hardener will probably give you a little better gloss because it isn't doing anything but acting as a reducer & you can get the same thing by just adding extra reducer in the same amount. I have found that the gloss factor is actually just slightly better without hardener but not enough to not use hardener, about the only time I won't use hardener is if I plan on letting the panel sit for a few months before use & I always use hardener on the castings. The clear coat that I have been using lately is "Delclear" & is an acrylic urethane clear which is 2 part with an activator. The use of urethane clear is generally NOT recommended for going over synthetic enamel & as far as I can tell no one is recommending the use of a urethane over synthetic enamel (I am not a pro painter so all I know is what works well for me). I usually don't clear coat J.D. paint because to me it looks too plastic like & doesn't look like original Deere paint. I have to admit that it looks real shiny & deep in color & really stands out though, but NOT ORIGINAL DEERE LIKE. The main reason I use a clear coat is to get a much more durable paint that can be rubbed & the dirt specs sanded & polished out. If you are considering using a urethane clear coat wait 2-3 weeks (preferably in the sun) before even considering it's use, then wet sand with 1000 wet & dry paper (anything coarser can leave fine scratches that could show through the clear) then after sanding wait at least 3 days for the newly exposed solvent to leave (do not scuff with a scotch pad, even an ultra fine one will let the clear solvent into the base & cause a problem) . If you don't wait (this is the voice of experience) there is a good possibility that the clear will react with the base synthetic & it will crack & craze then you will be one unhappy farmer. Try not to put too heavy of a build of clear on because with the dark green base the solar heat goes right through the clear & heats the green so there is a heat buildup under the clear. This is not intended to scare you, it is just my experience with the cruel world of painting.

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Jerry

11-19-2001 07:01:03




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 Re: Correct Green Paint and Hardner in reply to Bryan I, 11-19-2001 06:25:30  
I use JD primer and JD AG green with Martin Senior enamel hardner(MSE-375) get it at your NAPA store.



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