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1944 B OIL?

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Steve

11-18-2001 21:39:25

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What type of oil should I use in my B, engine and transmission? I know some manufacturers have changed from a straight oil to multi grade and detergent oils.

Thanks

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Prune Picker

11-19-2001 17:12:41

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Re: 1944 B OIL? in reply to Steve , 11-18-2001 21:39:25

I use 30W detergent motor oil in the motor and hydraulics, and Chevron 85W-90 in the rear end. My '44 BN hasn't ever been rebuilt and is used for light duty on weekends only. Be sure you change the oil filter and have the filter plate in place. If it's missing, you can get 'em at the JD dealership.

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Jason D. Wahl

11-19-2001 11:20:35

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Re: 1944 B OIL? in reply to Steve , 11-18-2001 21:39:25

You don't say wether or not the engine has been rebuilt or not and what the climate is like where you live. If your engine is freshly rebuilt or just good and solid, then detergent oil is fine to use. If yours has quite a few hours on it then I would stick to non-detergent oil to be on the safe side. I had a '45/46 B that I bought and poured TEXACO straight 30W detergent in it. After approx. 5 hours of running it started knocking and burning oil. What happens is that detergent oil washes all the carbon and deposits that have built up over the years in the crankcase and thus opens up microscopic passages around the rings and bearings that were actually helping to seal oil leaks. Now on a newly rebuilt engine of course you do not have to worry about this.

Now as far as what weight you use, you must use your best judgement. They were designed to use straight 20W in cold weather and straight 30W in warm weather. Even with today's high tech motor oils I still prefer good old fashion natural (petrolem) oil. What brand does not really matter in these old things, just so long as you stick to what you choose.

In the rear-end I would suggest at least a 85W-140 or better yet GL-140 if you can find it. NAPA or John Deere should carry both of these or can get it. The more noise your tranny makes go with a thicker oil. If you want to eliminate the water problem, then find Schaeffer's brand as it WILL NOT MIX WITH WATER even when you're driving!
It displaces water and it will settel at the bottom. So all you have to do is crack your drain plug a little just enough to let the water out, then when you get oil comming out, quickly tighten your plug again. That's It!!!

Your POWER-LIFT or POWER-TROL takes straight 30W unless you use modern equipment that takes the newer type hydraulic oil.

Good luck!

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Steve

11-22-2001 16:33:20

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Re: Re: 1944 B OIL? in reply to Jason D. Wahl, 11-19-2001 11:20:35

Thanks for the information.

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Jerry S

11-19-2001 09:02:14

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Re: 1944 B OIL? in reply to Steve , 11-18-2001 21:39:25

I use 10-30 in the motor and get by with it since it isn't leaking. If you have small leaks, you can use a 30 wt to help stop that. The transmission needs a 90 wt oil. I hear of people using 140 wt but it is hard to get. If you have mayonaisse when you drain your transmission, the book says to add some kerosene or diesel fuel and drive it about 1/4 mile then drain that. Unless your tractor is under a roof, it will get water in there. You also want to make sure you drain both places, under the transmission and the square inset plug under the rear axle so to get a more complete drain. I like to change pto/power lift oil then too. I use hydraulic fluid in it or 20 wt oil.

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Marty Z

11-19-2001 04:48:13

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Re: 1944 B OIL? in reply to Steve , 11-18-2001 21:39:25

If you only use the tractor in the summer, single weight is fine ,but I use the multi weight. Have you ever seen 30 wt at 20 deg.The newer oils are much better than the oil that was used when those manuals were printed.

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Richard

11-19-2001 04:39:22

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Re: 1944 B OIL? in reply to Steve , 11-18-2001 21:39:25

I use a single grade, but detergents don't hurt.

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