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4240 top and bottom engine work

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Mark

11-13-2001 15:03:16




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I have 10000 hours on a very reliable 4240 but I am going to do a bearing and sleeve, piston and ring job. I really cannot afford to have it done in the shop and need to know if this is a job that an inexperienced guy like me can do. I know that if the crank is not spun that this can be done without splitting the tractor.

The sleeves are bought with the pistons and rings already placed.

Thanks,

Mark

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Steve II

11-14-2001 12:22:27




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 Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Mark, 11-13-2001 15:03:16  
Hello GUYS. I have a 71 JD 4000 with 404 I think? it drips water in oil. right now I am only using water and take it out when tractor is not in use. to keep it from driping in oil. if I leave water in over night then I have to check loose the oil plug and take the water out from under. I know this kind a pain in the feelings. same problem my money is short to do this much repair on tractor, I know how repair engines much as diesel but not this big. dont have shop to work inside. what I thinking of doing is drop the oil pan and full block with water and put air hose in to block and look under see where the water is driping from one of the O Rings and just repair this one? maybe there could be two? I have looked in reparing most of engine or get a short block (this one would be nice but sure on buget.) I wish to find way to keep tractor going till I could get a short block. I use it to farm on 70 acres.

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WTW

11-15-2001 08:07:58




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 Re: Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Steve II, 11-14-2001 12:22:27  
Steve, The late 4020 and all 4000 tractors used two different engine blocks. They went from one to the other somewhere in 1971. The first one had one o-ring and one square packing per liner that sealed the liner in the block. This first series block was prone to leak coolant in the oil. The second one had two o-rings and one packing per liner that sealed the line in the block. They gave little to No problem that way. Not knowing which one you have I would bet from past experience that you have the earlier one of the two. If you have the early one, do don't just fix one as the next one will be leaking after you get done. To tell which one you have, the early one (the poor one) has the large smooth ear on the left front corner of the block, this was the location that the 4010 and early 4020 used for the ventilator pump. When these pumps were discontinued after 1968 they just cast this hole area over smooth. The later block does not have this ear at all and this area is used for an A.C. mounting on tractor so equipped. To make a long story short If you have the early one plan on sleeves and piston in all six holes or you will be doing allot of work in vain. Good Luck, Dave W.

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Steve II

11-15-2001 12:10:04




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 Re: Re: Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to WTW, 11-15-2001 08:07:58  
Thanks for help. I think I have the earlier one..
engine never had been broke in before.what if I get new sleeve, piston and ring will the sleeve come with two O rings? will it work? or do I have to get a Repair engine?



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WTW

11-16-2001 08:53:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Steve II, 11-15-2001 12:10:04  
Steve, The o-ring grooves that the o-rings seat in are in the block on most all John Deere engines not the sleeve. The sleeve diameter is smooth. So to answer your question No, there is no way to change what you have other than replace / recondition the parts and do a good job in hopes that you can get that much life out of it again until it deteriorates again. There is nothing wrong with your block other than the one o-ring / one packing design that you will have to live with unless you want to put the later engine including the cylinder head and in all reality that isn't the option that you would chose. I would just plan on doing a good sleeve and piston job on it and you will be good for a long time again. Good Luck, Dave

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Mark

11-14-2001 11:20:52




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 Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Mark, 11-13-2001 15:03:16  
Thank you all very much for your input. If I do this it will be with much fear and hopefully not too much trembling. I tend to be very exacting in whatever I do but I realize that it could cost more in the longrun to proceed.

Thanks again,

Mark



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WTW

11-14-2001 07:29:07




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 Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Mark, 11-13-2001 15:03:16  
Mark, To tell someone that he should or should not tackle a project like this one needs to know the others ability better. Here is some advice from a old 24 year experienced John Deere mechanic. Take it for what it is worth. Whether you do it yourself or someone else. First use only John Deere parts, yes they will cost a little more but there is a difference. The first engine didn't go 10000 hours with short line or rebuilt crap in it. John Deere sleeves are hardened and the pistons are matched to the sleeves for accurate running tolerances. Never use a rod bolt over on these engines and replace the head bolts using the latest torque instructions available from John Deere on both the rod and head bolts. Have the cylinder head worked over at a good engine machine shop and make sure the valve recession in the head is in in SPEC!! not close, (on the money) or tractor will not start like it did when it was new. The last advice I can give you is Keep it clean! When the block is properly cleaned up the liners will be installed with hand pressure. This is a common overlooked area. The oring grooves in the block that seal the liners need to be cleaned to a shine so when liners are installed they will not require extreme force to install them. If you cannot push them in by hand you either don't have them clean or they are not properly lubricated. If forced good chance damage to the orings in the block will result. All crank bearings can be replaced with the crankshaft in the tractor and come with the kit. Good Luck on What you decide to do. Dave W.

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Mark

11-13-2001 20:55:09




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 Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Mark, 11-13-2001 15:03:16  
twopop,

I know I am probably oversimplifying, but other that taking off the head, using a tool to remove the old sleeve, removing pan and taking off caps, rods, pistons and rings, what else is there?
I am sure I will need to spec out the crank and place new bearings.
I have had a local JD mech. to have me call him when I get to a few tougher parts and he will help.

Mark



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ErnieD

11-13-2001 17:10:46




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 Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to Mark, 11-13-2001 15:03:16  
Well no one else has commented. I normally just lurk on the JD board. I have overhauled 3 gas engines, not a diesel though. Tore a diesel down a dealer said was just fine and it had a spun bearing, pulled the engine and had a different dealer make it right. So here are some points to consider.

Make sure of your crank journal dimensions, they can be undersize from wear. They may have been on the loose side when the engine was assembled.

Whats your overhaul kit worth?, if you screw up how much are you out?

Lastly how much is your time worth? Will you be depending on the machine at planting when it is being re-re overhauled for the second time. Lastly if the job turns out sour so the block or crank is hosed what is that worth. This all is to determine your down side risk.

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twopop

11-13-2001 19:38:30




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 Re: Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to ErnieD, 11-13-2001 17:10:46  
the 466 engine used in the 4240 is less forgiving than the earlier 404.this is a workhorse engine.if you havent ever rebuilt a diesel,dont start with this one.you can buy a shortblock from abilene machine for about $4000.00 the headbolts are special and can only be used once.you need torquing instructions from deere



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G Taylor

11-14-2001 01:35:04




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 Re: Re: Re: 4240 top and bottom engine work in reply to twopop, 11-13-2001 19:38:30  
Have to agree with twopop & Ernie D. Unless this engine is burning oil, hard starting or has had a cylinder(s) washed down with a failed injector then just run it. Some early 466's had oil pump drives that required care & experience to assemble. Just install a couple of new 195F coolant thermostats & rebuilt injectors with new tips. The use it till she quits. I've lost more time & money going "by guess & by golly" trying to save a few bucks on unknown projects than having a pro assist/teach or just having it done. Rebuilds from Deere have updated pistons,injectors,cams etc for higher efficiency & less soot.

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