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JD B removal of rear wheels

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Scott

11-05-2001 04:41:47




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HI, I have been soaking my rear wheel axle splines with wd40 and feel I am ready to try to remove the rear wheels. Can anyone give me some pointers on there successes in making this happen, or even advice on what might work to remove these Wheels. Please no sledge hammers as tools of choice...

Thank You Very much,




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Dave 1020

11-07-2001 17:24:13




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
I removed the hubs off a 39 B by sooking them for a few weaks then using threaded rod and a heavy plate(12x12x1) drild holes in the plate the same patern as the hub put the rod in the hub and the plate on the end of the axle and used an inpact on it keep going a little on each one good luck



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Scott

11-08-2001 20:03:25




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 Re: Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Dave 1020, 11-07-2001 17:24:13  
THERE OFF!!!!! It took me two days and the Darn hubs are off. I was dancing a jig in the shop and my wife looked out the window and thought I had dropped something heavy on my foot. All I can say is thank goodness for plenty of lubricant and a nice strong 2 arm puller, not to mention, chisels, impact, breaker bar, cheater bar, impact sockets and a few choice words to motivate the puller. Thanks again to all those who wrote to me, and I am as happy as ram in a herd of ewes right now.....

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RayP(MI)

11-06-2001 17:17:11




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
When we got our '49 B there was no way those wheels would move. Took us a couple weeks of penetrating oil and hard work to even break loose the collars. With the collars a little loose, and all the exposed axle splines cleaned as well as we could, we took the tractor out and worked her for a day or two, pulling a brush hog. wheels began to slide on their own after while. Once we got the rust off the axles, things went fairly smoothly. Know now why my dad kept the axles lubricated with light oil!

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jdkid38

11-06-2001 00:10:01




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
when i took the rear wheels off my unstyled G i took 3 3/4 grade 8 rods about 3 feet long and a piece of 1 inch plate steel about a foot square and a 20 ton hydrolic jack first i screwed the rods in to the locking clamp threaded holes than i took the plate and measured and drilled three holes for the rods making sure the jack would fit inside the three rods double nut the rods on the jack end so they dont strip the threads off put the jack between the plate and the end of the axel make sure the valve on the jack is on the bottom side of the jack other wise it wont get the oil to push put presure on the jack if it dont move take 3 small chisels and tap them in with a hammer on the end where the locking coller goes so the hub gaps away from the axel be careful not to open them up to much you could break the hub id say about 1/8 inch enough to get some penatrating oil in there and they should come off and the nice part is you dont even to take the axel out of the tractor good luck

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Scott

11-05-2001 19:37:16




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
Gentleman I want to thank all of you who took the time to write and give me some foresight into this task. I have printed off all the suggestions, and tonic mixtures that will aide me in breaking these bad boys loose. Once again I have not been disappointed from the knowledge of others, Thank You again. I will be attacking those wheels this weekend and I am sure Weaving a string of swear words just to the right level to knock all that darn rust loose. Thanks again Guys :)

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BottomD

11-05-2001 14:35:16




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
I got my A wheels off that looked like they had not been moved in 60 years. Cleaned the spline as best I could put a good chain through two holes opposit each other put my 10 ton porta power on end of axel soaked with P B blaster every day. One took about two weeks.The other did the same after two weeks heat with rose bud one time kept soaking two more weeks it broke loose. Good luck BottomD



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Jerry S

11-05-2001 09:00:59




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
I had good luck by removing the lock hubs, the brakes (because they were frozen), and the transmission shifter off so to get the transmission in neutral.I had previously soaked the splines with Kroil and some WD40 just for fun. Then my eldest son and I went for a ride. After about 7 or 8 rounds in the pasture, the wheels began to show movement at which time We went back to the barn for an easy removal job. Always make sure you don't let one get off the end of the axle while pulling it though. This was much easier than the torch and cursing plan. This tractor has sat outside for nearly 40 years.
Hope this is of help to you. Good luck.

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Tractor Fred

11-05-2001 07:33:28




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
I successfully pulled two 38" Cast iron wheels with 12 " rims off my 43 Model B this weekend. One of the wheels may have been stuck for several decades. Actually taking the collars off was the hardest part requiring the most wire brushing, cleaning and lots of heat. Before removing the hubs, take the weight of the wheel off the hub buy removing the 6 bolts securing the wheel to the hub. Once you jack up that axel of the tractor, you can move the wheel inside and reast it against the tractor. To make a puller, I used the drawbar as a strong back and bought a 3 foot section of 5/8 threaded stock which I cut in half, and 4 coarse 5/8 inch nuts and washers. You are right, do not use hammers or other force which might send pressure along the axel to the internal bearing.

Clean out the hub and axel as much as you can and pre-soak as much as possible with DextonII transmission fluid. After tightening, your puller, apply heat to break the rust and it should be easy from there.

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John T

11-05-2001 07:13:03




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 Re: JD B removal of rear wheels in reply to Scott, 11-05-2001 04:41:47  
Scott, I bought a 37 B (very rusty looks like wheels havent been moved in 60 yrs) with rear spokes and need to remove them also and heres what Ive done so far. Cleaned the splines etc with air and WD 40, PB Blaster etc., and diesel fuel mixed with tranny and brake fluid. Of course, remove the locking colars and then Henry and I built a puller using a 6 inch square 1 inch thick plate steel and with 4 grade 8, 12 inch bolts that go through the four holes in the cast wheel and used grade 8 nuts behind them. Then we insert a porta power between the end of the axle and that steel plate BUT a 20 ton didnt budge it. So, next were gonna take 2 torches and heat those hubs on each side to break them free of teh splines and pray and cuss etc and aply heat then the porta power. Good luck to us both. If that dont get mine off, Im gonna torch off the axles even with each end of the hubs and get it rigged in a press or use hammers and heat till I drive them axles out. Your questioned requested no hammers,,,, but hammers and heat may be necessary in addition to any presses or pullers. Ol John T

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