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You really need a set of photos to follow how all this works, but I don't have any suitable for putting in this post. So, I'll have to be descriptive and confuse the heck out of you. You really need to get your hands on a JD service manual for the 1010 crawler and that'll have all of this in there along with great photos of it. Here's the basics on how it works. There is a pack of dry clutch plates inside the final drive housings. They are actually inside of a drum unit. The drum is, of course steel as is the pressure plate. In between these two bits are a stack of seven steel discs and seven fiber discs. The steel discs have external ear tabs that hook into slots inside the steel drum. The fiber discs have internal splines, like sprocket teeth. Inside these goes the power shaft from the ring-and-pinion (we can't call it a differential, as crawlers have no spyder gears, but it's the same idea). With me still? OK. Now you see that the power passes into the fiber discs and is coupled into the steel discs, the drum face and the pressure plate face. the drum unit is attached to the ouput shaft that the track drive sprocket is bolted to. Also, the circumference of the whole drum unit is wrapped by a brake band. This is what works with the steering lever as well as the master brake pedal to stop the tracks. Here's what happens when you steer: You pull back on the lever. That's coupled to the throw-out bearing by a series of rods, bell cranks and a cam-like unit that holds the bearing. The bearing pushes on the levers attached to the pressure plate releasing the spring pressure. That uncouples the fiber discs from the steel ones and essentially puts that track into a free-wheeling (how's that for an oxymoron on a tracked machine?) state. As you continue to pull on the lever, the pressure plate disengages further, but then a rod pulls on the brake band, applying the brake and stopping that track. Still with me, I hope! Now, there are some adjustments involved with all this linkage. They are accessed via a pair of what look like 55-gallon bung hole caps - because they *are* bung hole caps. One of these adjustments is a 7/16 (as I recall) hex bolt in a slotted piece. This is the throwout bearing adjustment, and probably the cause of your grief. I know that they like to slip and the result is a track that you can't stop and the machine will only steer to one side. Of course some other bit in this linkage may have come undone and it's a matter of getting it hooked back up, but I'd guess that the clutch pack adjustment has slipped. Oh, and the brakes aren't strong enough to stop a track if the power isn't uncoupled. The problem is the adjustment procedure requires several steps, starting with blocking the steering levers in a given distance from the dashboard. I have this procedure for my 420c, but the dash is different on the 1010c and I doubt it works out the same. I know that the 1010c and the 420c are essentially the same from the transmission through the track frames, but the dash, hood and other tin changed on the 430 and 440 machines and is somewhat different again on the 1010. You really need the JD manual section on the 1010c steering clutch adjustment to get it right. Not only that, but you need to adjust both sides and also adjust the master brake pedal linkage as well. All this has to be done right or these things will not steer and stop properly. Oh, and I have no serial number reference for the 1010 series handy. They were built for only a few years, as I recall. The 1010 had to compete with the last of the 2-cyl machines, the 440 Industrial model (built up to '65 or '66). The 1010 was mainly used as a ag machine, but that all ended for sure once the larger JD350 came out. Hope it helps! Steamer
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