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43 JD Model B Cylinder Head

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SanDiegoGreen

09-21-2001 20:12:12




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Successfully removed the cylinder head on my hobby tractor last night. Request help on the following:
- How do you remove the keepers or valve stem locks over the spring centering washers?

- I noticed all the previous discussion on the bronze push rod sleeves. These 2 sleeves have some minor iron rust stain in them and they appear worn thin. Do JD parts dealers sell replacement bronze sleeves? Also, what is a good replacement tool for the special puller tool shown in the JD "B" Service Manual? I figue this is as good a time as ever to replace these 2 sleeves.

Tomorrow while waiting for your suggestions, I intend to tackle the cylinder block. So far, all the nuts and bolts are able to be loosened!

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Bob Weber

09-30-2001 09:58:46




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 Re: 43 JD Model B Cylinder Head in reply to SanDiegoGreen, 09-21-2001 20:12:12  
SanDiego, I used a long bolt, a washer just slightly smaller than the OD of the new sleeve, and a short piece of pipe on the other end that has an ID larger than the sleeve, so the sleeve can slide into it as it is pulled. So the order of parts is "long bolt with small washer, inserted through sleeve, then pipe, larger washer, and nut on other end". Note that the sleeve has a slightly smaller OD on one end, so you need to remove it in the proper direction. I don't recall which end is smaller, but I think it's the top (front) of the head, instead of the combustion chamber end. I'm sure someone will verify which it is, or you can tell by measuring with a caliper. The same tool can be used to install the new sleeves, without the piece of pipe. Good luck.

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SanDiegoGreen

09-24-2001 13:26:36




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 Re: 43 JD Model B Cylinder Head in reply to SanDiegoGreen, 09-21-2001 20:12:12  
All this is great information. However, I am still not sure about how to extract old worn out push rod sleeve. Is there a particular tool to do this or do most folks use somethng ahndy around the shop like a large diameter punch? Would a tapered piece of wood dowel work?



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Larry

09-22-2001 05:54:41




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 Re: 43 JD Model B Cylinder Head in reply to SanDiegoGreen, 09-21-2001 20:12:12  
You will need a valve spring compressor to remove the valves. You may be able to borrow one from a mechanic. I bought one a long time ago at NAPA. It is a tool you will need a lot if you are going towork on these old tractors. They are not expensive. The tappet pipes as replacements from John Deere are brass or bronze. I just got done putting my head back on yesterdau, and it is leaking a little at the pipes. I made a swedging tool out of a copper rod. It must not be hard enough to expand the brass pipes, so today, I will try steel punch of the right diamiter. My current B is also a 43 or 44 as it has the pressure radiator, and cast iron frame. Good luck.

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SanDiegoGreen

09-22-2001 17:08:07




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 Re: Re: 43 JD Model B Cylinder Head in reply to Larry, 09-22-2001 05:54:41  
I did not think a spring compressor would be needed as I am able to press the valve down while the head is sitting on the table. It looks like I need to block the valve head underneath the block and push hard on the valve stem centering washers to break the retainers free. I just wanted to make sure this technique would not damage anything.

Also, it looks a fancy extractor tool is not required for the2 tappet pipes. Let me know how the steel punch works.

My 43 does not have a pressure radiator. One of my future concerns will be replacing the upper and lower water pipes. The previous owners did not use any rust inhibitor in the radiator water and as a result the pipes are shot and everything else needs lots of scrapping, grinding, and preservation.

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Larry L. Walla

09-23-2001 16:29:19




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 Re: Re: Re: 43 JD Model B Cylinder Head in reply to SanDiegoGreen, 09-22-2001 17:08:07  
I have taken them apart without a spring compressor. It is putting them back together that is hard.The pipes sealed up and the old bugger runs. The carb needs some work, but it don't sound too bad. I am not sure what year my b is as the serial plate is missing. As for the water pipes, I went down to my local muffler shop, and they made me perfect copies for $3 each. The upper one can be made a little large on the engine end, and it will slip over the old one, then I braze it on. Good luck with your valves.

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