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3020 Diesel- Rebuild

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BIG JOHN

08-03-2001 04:16:58




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This spring I purchased a 3020D for snowblowing my driveway. I noticed that when temperatures changed sometimes a weep hole would seep some coolant, these are partly plugged and did not know of this great john deere idea. I also bush hog with this tractor, mainly shes now retired. maybe a 100 hrs a year. I have rebuilt some auto gas engines, Are these diesels tough to rebuild other than the 1500 dollars worth of parts, does anyone know or have the ins and outs on these.
hrs are unknown as is most- 1966model
thanks-BIG JOHN p.s. is splitting a big deal?

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BIG JOHN SAYS THANKS!

08-04-2001 04:52:29




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 Re: 3020 Diesel- Rebuild in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-03-2001 04:16:58  

THANKS FOR REPLYS
BIG JOHN



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Dan

08-03-2001 14:22:20




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 Re: 3020 Diesel- Rebuild in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-03-2001 04:16:58  
I used to rebuild engines on these and 4020s when I worked fro teh JD dealership here. You don't have to split them to rebuild the engine. If you just want to do sleeves and pistons and main and rod bearings it is not that hard. I would suggest getting a service book, preferably JD instead of IT as they are more detailed. That will give you torques and all. Sounds like over time the O rings at the bottom of the liners have rotted out. Might not have to do anything with injector pump if it is running ok already.

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Greg H.

08-03-2001 08:19:11




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 Re: 3020 Diesel- Rebuild in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-03-2001 04:16:58  
Big John,
My brother In-law and myself rebuilt our father-in-laws 64 model a couple of winters ago, and it didn't seem to be too hard. However I must admitt that we did nothing to the feul pump or injectors with the exception of removing them and reinstalling them as per the IT service manual. The enternal balancer was kind of a pain in the but to get reinstalled, and we needed some assistance from a neighbor getting the clutch set correctly, but other than that it was a positive experience. With help from another neighbor who is a welder we made our own jack stands to support the front of the tractor, and we could even roll it around. We placed an anvil and a couple of boards under the rear draw bar, and also placed wood blocks under the transmission on the front below the front PTO shaft. If I could change anything for the next rebuild I would make stands to carry the rear of the tractor so that it could be moved around, and leave the front of the tractor stationary. I feel that it would aid in putting the tractor back together. I also made a sleeve puller, out of 3/4 inch steel, shaped in a square U with a hole in the center and 3/4 inch all thread going down through your Sleeves with a plate that would screw on the bottom. The you would just run the all thread up through the steel U which was possitioned upside down, and place a nut on the all thread above the puller, and with a cresent wrench, tighten the nut and the sleeve comes out. a couple of the sleeves required a peck with a block of wood from below, but the rest came fairly easily. I thought it was a fun project, but then again it was winter, and what else was there to be doing. I'd say just take your time, get a good manual and enjoy working on your tractor. One more thing, some people don't take the time and money to pull the cam and the crank, and have them reworked, if necessary by a machine shop, but I feel if your going to all this trouble anyhow, whats a few more days and a couple more hunderd dollars. Good Luck, Greg H

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JDkid39

08-03-2001 20:55:49




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 Re: Re: 3020 Diesel- Rebuild in reply to Greg H., 08-03-2001 08:19:11  
the easiest way to remove the sleives is to run a beed with the welder about two inches from the top to the top of the sleive (I run two beeds, one on each side)when it cools, the sleive will slide out easily. If piston is out, I wrap the journal with a soaking wet rag.



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ET

08-03-2001 07:48:59




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 Re: 3020 Diesel- Rebuild in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-03-2001 04:16:58  
It's not to hard ,give special atention to the O-ring area of the block and the recess area
of the deck where the sleeve flange sets. Get them real clean. Whoever does the head should make sure the valve protrusion hight
is correct it makes a big difference in how well
it starts especialy in cold weather.



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DaChew

08-03-2001 06:22:34




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 Re: 3020 Diesel- Rebuild in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-03-2001 04:16:58  
Did you read the 2010D restoration article series in the article archives? It's highly detailed and makes the process look fairly easy.



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