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JD 1020 fanbelt

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glenshoe

06-25-2001 11:28:45




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I need to replace the fanbelt on my 1020 but I'm having a hard time trying to figure out how I'm going to remove the shaft coupling for the hydraulic pump. I can't get my hands in there because the radiator/fan shroud (which looks like it's part of the radiator) prevents it. Am I going to have to do a major teardown job to replace this belt or is there a simple trick that's not obvious to me? Any help here would be appreciated. While I'm in there, should I replace the shaft coupling with a new one?

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glenshoe

06-26-2001 07:56:20




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 Re: JD 1020 fanbelt in reply to glenshoe, 06-25-2001 11:28:45  
Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm going to try the socket extension method first. BTW, the dealer told me that I should definitely replace the rubber bushings in the shaft coupling while I'm in there, so I'm going to do that. Again, thanks.



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davidval

06-26-2001 07:23:07




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 Re: JD 1020 fanbelt in reply to glenshoe, 06-25-2001 11:28:45  
there is a way to disassemble the pump drive without removing the radiator:
rotate the engine by rotating the flywheel from the opening under the exhaust manifold or rotating the clutch through the service opening or by very short applications of starter or by tightening the belt and rotating the fan (best on gas engine), until one of the lock nuts of the pump drive is at the right side, in a way that it's reachable with a box wrench and a long extention and remove the nut.
rotate the engine another 180 degrees and remove the other nut and the bolt whose nut was already removed.
rotate 180 degrees more and remove the remaining bolt. turn the pump drive by hand enough for the belt to pass.
david

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Steve from Tn

06-25-2001 13:48:30




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 Re: JD 1020 fanbelt in reply to glenshoe, 06-25-2001 11:28:45  
Glenshoe, we have an old backhoe mounted on either a 1010 or 1020. I can't remember for sure. It sounds very much like your rig. We always take the radiator off. It is time consuming but I believe the best and maybe only way.

Now to the shaft coupling: Ours has two bolts and two rubber bushings. The rubber bushings go over two spools that the bolts go through. I am going from short memory here. Ok, here's the main deal; you must not torque the bolts too tight or they will pop almost as soon as you start your engine. I do not know the torque on these. My nephew always puts it back together. Check with your dealer on that.

One more thing; to take the radiator off, you go from the bottom of the tractor. There are two bolts about 4-5 inches long that go up through the bottom of the frame of the tractor. They are up in holes and have springs on each bolt. I do hope this helps you. BTW, I can have the radiator off in about 30 min. Steve Carmack

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