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Flywheel starter gear

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scott

03-27-2001 16:41:49




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I know that I have read and heard that you can flip the starter gear over on the flywheel, but how do you do it? Do you have to slowly tap around it with a brass drift to work it off? Are there any little tricks that will help? Thanks in advance for your ideas.




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clooney

03-28-2001 08:03:10




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 Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to scott, 03-27-2001 16:41:49  
Scott, just turn the flywheel so the direction the ring gear has to go is facing down & heat the ring only with a torch & the ring will usually fall right off, if it doesn't then a couple of taps with a hammer & off it comes. To install, just heat & slip on, maybe a couple of light taps, then let cool. Important: if the original had a chamfer on the teeth you will have to grind that same chamfer on the starter drive side of the ring when you flip it over or it will tear the starter drive up.

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Scott

03-28-2001 17:26:18




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 Re: Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to clooney, 03-28-2001 08:03:10  
What do you mean by chamfer? Are you talking about the slight angle of the teeth facing the starter? If so (bear with me this could be a dumb question) how do you know when to flip the starter gear around? Looking at the gear, should it be nice and square and does not show any rounding of the starter side of the teeth? Thank-you for all of your help, I think I now have an idea of how to approach this.

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clooney

03-28-2001 18:06:26




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 Re: Re: Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to Scott, 03-28-2001 17:26:18  
Scott, some flywheels have a chamfer (angle on the teeth) & some don't. The ones that have the angle are designed to have it to mesh with the starter drive correctly. If you don't put approximately the same angle on it you will have a grinding when it engages. Most 2 cylinder John Deere engines only stop in a few places so they usually only wear in those places, look at the non wear parts to see how the teeth were originally cut. If the ring gear is only worn in a couple of places you might be able to get away with just turning it 90* & not actually flipping it over because the flywheel will then stop on the un-worn areas.

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Scott

03-29-2001 10:49:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to clooney, 03-28-2001 18:06:26  
Thank-you Clooney. After looking over the gear, I have 2 areas that look worn. I will heat up the gear and turn it on the flywheel about 90 degrees.



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clooney

03-29-2001 13:22:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to Scott, 03-29-2001 10:49:33  
Scott, that is all that is usually needed to stop the grinding make the starter engage correctly again.



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John T

03-28-2001 05:27:36




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 Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to scott, 03-27-2001 16:41:49  
I agree with the below, you obviously need the tooth ring hot to expand it and the flywheel cold to contract it, then install and let them shrink/expand together. I have also seen some peened with a dot punch a few places around the perimeter where the ring and flywheel meet. If first kept outside on a cold day (or in an old upright freezer even) the cold would shrink the flywheel even more, but dont call me to lift it in and out lol, Im busy that day. Ol John T

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Paul

03-27-2001 18:17:52




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 Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to scott, 03-27-2001 16:41:49  
It'll come off pretty easy with a torch like Jack said. I like to take the flywheel off and lay it down - seems to almost fall off that way. The OLD shop manuals said to build a hot fire, with kindling, on the ground to heat the ring. Pick it up with pliers and drop it on. You'll notice that the original bendix side of the flywheel is beveled. After replacing the flywheel on the tractor and before replacing the flywheel cover, you can pull start it, and with the engine idling, lightly touch a weld grinder to the new bendix side of the teeth to establish a bevel. Don't get your shirt sleeve or hair caught in it. It'll wind you up like a pretzel.

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Jack Yates

03-27-2001 17:45:28




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 Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to scott, 03-27-2001 16:41:49  
Starter ring gears are fitted hot and shrunk onto the flywheel. You have to heat it evenly with an oxy- acetylene or oxy-propane torch without heating the flywheel itself to any great degree, then tap gently all around the ring gear and it should nearly drop off. Be careful not to hit it so hard as to cock it on an angle to the flywheel and make it stick. flip it (and the flywheel)over, reheat it and it'll drop on the flywheel.

Don't dunk it in water, let it air-cool.

I've done the last three ring-gears (none of which were JDs) in a coal forge, which works even better.

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zane

03-27-2001 17:00:50




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 Re: flywheel starter gear in reply to scott, 03-27-2001 16:41:49  
Sounds like another application for WD-40!

Seriously, you'll probably need to take the flywheel off and take it to a welding or blacksmith shop. I'd suggest heating the gear with torches as rapidly and uniformly as possible. You should be able to heat the gear sufficiently, apart from the wheel, to allow you to bump it off.



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