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47 Model A still won't idle, and runs to fast!!

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Wes

01-24-2001 17:43:04




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The responses I have gotten in the past have been a huge help, and I hope you aren't all getting tired of me yet. I checked for vacuum leaks, I cleaned the idle passages in the carb and the thing still won't idle. I even check the throttle shaft length (Like someone suggested) and it was way off so I adjusted it. The problem is that the thing will just open wide up like the govenor has no control (1500+ RPM). Any suggestions will be of tremendous help. I am considering taking the tractor to a mechanic but want to avoid that at all cost. The weird thing is that I can fix a combine or just about any other piece of farm equipment but these darn engines have me stumped.

Wes

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Pete

01-25-2001 18:55:57




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 Re: 47 Model A still won't idle, and runs to fast!! in reply to Wes, 01-24-2001 17:43:04  
Wes, The only advice I can give you is carb, I redid a 70 last year, rebuilt the carb, and it hunted like yours, chased my tail replacing throttle rods, rebuilding governor twice, reshimming governor twice, nothing worked, tried another carb rebuild, still didn't work, finally tried a friends carb and it ran like a top, realizing that I was in over my head, I sent the carb out and it works. The guy tolde me that all he did different from me was soak it for 1 whole week in carb cleaner (not the environmentally friendly kind) then clean it again and put it back togehter. I've done IH's, Fords, MF, and Cases, and Deere carbs seem to get the crustiest for some reason. It was the only problem I have ever run into that I wasn't able to work through with help from this sight, or just repeatedly trying on my own! Pete

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buckeye al

01-25-2001 15:10:15




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 Re: 47 Model A still won't idle, and runs to fast!! in reply to Wes, 01-24-2001 17:43:04  
I apologize for this being such a long posting.

I don't know how new you and the tractor are to each other and don't want to insult you but are you sure it's previous owner did not double up the throttle springs or put a rigid piece of steel against the spring? I've seen both and they'll cause the runaway you describe. There should be only a single leaf spring.

With the tractor not running, push the throttle lever all the way forward. Like an earlier post said, make sure the throttle rod is 1/2 the diameter of the rod shy of dropping into the throttle shaft hole when both the throttle and the throttle lever are in the wide open (WOT) position. Some governors are VERY sensitive and will have trouble returning to idle speed if the rod is more than 1/2 a diameter short! Since you're having trouble slowing your beast down, I'd suggest setting it so that the rod drops straight into the hole instead of being a half hole short until you find your trouble.

Anyway, connect the throttle rod. Pull your throttle handle all the way back. The governor spring should touch the point of the governor lever arm and the carb should be at or near dead idle. If not, adjust the throttle handle's idle stop bolt to allow you to reach this point. Next, advance the throttle lever ahead from dead idle until the carb just reaches WOT. The carb should reach WOT before the governor spring starts to leave the point of the governor arm. At this point (tractor still not running) you should easily be able to move the carb's throttle shaft from wide open to dead idle by fighting only the fairly light force of the governor spring. If you can't, then like someone else said, you have a governor problem.

If you start the tractor with the throttle handle still in this position (spring against or just barely pulled off the point) the governor should almost immediately increase the distance between the point of the governor arm and the spring in its attempt to slow the engine down and the tractor should run slightly above normal idle speed. If it still races, like the other guys said, you have a governor problem. I've seen stuck thrust bearing sleeves, bent or broken governor lever arm shafts, stuck or broken weights and many other problems. If you adjust and test like above and it won't work right, you won't necessarily know what is wrong but you'll know the trouble is "inside the box"!

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Later.

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Where's John T????

01-25-2001 13:46:10




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 Re: 47 Model A still won't idle, and runs to fast!! in reply to Wes, 01-24-2001 17:43:04  
What you need is one of John T's long reply. By the time you are done reading it, you will be so confused you will think the idle problem is not that bad. He does give good advice and we all know that a new distributor and a rebuilt carb will fix anything.



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al

01-24-2001 20:12:49




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 Re: 47 Model A still won't idle, and runs to fast!! in reply to Wes, 01-24-2001 17:43:04  
If you checkedthe throttle shaft length I think it says be 1/2 hole short of dropping in when handle is in full position.

Your gov weights may have gotten tucked behind the thrust fingers that operates the shaft thatoperates the gov control to the carb. Or something may have come loose in the gov housing.
Anyway take the cover off and look.Remove the mag before re installing cause the coupling may not lign up and you will push the shaft out through the mag.and ruin it.

al

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Tim

01-24-2001 19:43:40




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 Re: 47 Model A still won't idle, and runs to fast!! in reply to Wes, 01-24-2001 17:43:04  
Is this tractor idle surging? If it is I had a 46 "A" which I rebuilt and put a heisler head on that would run fine at speed and under load but surge at idle, as if it were about to die and then would recover agian and again, some times backfiring. I tried retiming it and adjusting the governor and throttle linkage and new points and condenser,& coil. Fianlly took it to a neighbor who restores tractors for a living, he charged me $135 to boil out the carb and take a look but still ran about the same, he claimed it was the heisler head had lots of compression and I would have to live with it. I finally sold the tractor on my uncles sale and a cousin bought it to keep it in the family. He had an old guy who used to repair tractors look and in a day he had it purring like a kitten. Turns out my distributor was shorting out and the tractor would die and recover over and over. He replaced it with a magneto he had. I believe distributor housing had a crack in it somewhere but I never could find it and was reluctant to fix it after the first neighbor told me to live with it. Not sure if this is your problem but I can sympathize with you as a guy hates to replace everything on a tractor, kind of an expensive way to find the problem unless you have parts laying around you know are good.

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