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3-way Fuel Valve

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phil

12-09-2000 17:08:54




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Anyone have trouble with the 3-way fuel shut-off valves on the hand start Deeres? I tightened the packing, later I bought a whole new valve, still drips fuel thru the line to the carb when in the 'OFF' position. So I've been shutting off the needle valve under the tank. Is this a typical problem area or should I be able to fix it? Thx




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Bill

12-10-2000 07:10:44




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 Re: 3-way Fuel Valve in reply to phil, 12-09-2000 17:08:54  
Unless you want to keep it org. or maybe you can make it fit, I went to the oil shut-off system. You have to run an oil line from the back of the gov. housing to the sediment bowl, then if you loose oil presure your engine will die. Kind of a safty feature and it works. HOPE IT HELPS.



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clooney

12-09-2000 18:45:21




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 Re: 3-way Fuel Valve in reply to phil, 12-09-2000 17:08:54  
Phil, what you have is about normal on those 3-way valves. Always close the main shut off valve as it is a real valve & not just a switching valve.On those 3-way valves I have played with the tapered valve & seat & seated them with rubbing compound & put in extra brass washers to get them to seal, but usually by the time I get them to seal they are too hard to turn to be of any use.



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John T

12-10-2000 08:12:58




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 Re: Re: 3-way Fuel Valve in reply to clooney, 12-09-2000 18:45:21  
I have also polished the tapered surface of those darn valves, installed new packing gasket, but it seems if you get them to where they dont leak, then they are hard to turn. I place white lithium grease in the brass washer/packing area which seems to help them turn easier, but it probably gets finally washed away. Therefore, like clooney man and others, I fix them so they dont leak, but then never turn them ever again and use the sed bowl shut off only. They hardly leak. I dont think their (3 ways) design and manufacture and cost makes them any high quality valve so I choose just not to use them either. At least theres no messy brown colored stains below them and ruined paint and all is still correct police proper. I never tried ML's method of the slight end removal (allowing deeper seating), but that sure makes sense. John T

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phil

12-09-2000 18:51:32




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 Re: Re: 3-way Fuel Valve in reply to clooney, 12-09-2000 18:45:21  
Thanks, I was about to reach the conclusion that they had a design problem & that I might be wasting my time doing more replacing or adjusting.



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Mike Aylward

12-09-2000 19:18:16




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 Re: Re: Re: 3-way Fuel Valve in reply to phil, 12-09-2000 18:51:32  
Phil, if your valve is good and smooth, I have had some luck in lapping a little off of the small, flat end of the tapered valve, which will sometimes let the valve go in a little deeper in the housing. I have salvaged a few valves by doing this. You don't have to take off much to help. Ideally, you want the edge of the valve and the housing to be flush with each other when the valve is installed snug. Then the valve will be more likely to do it's job. If the valve goes too deep in the housing use some kind of shim to get it flush. Kind of a "poor boy" fix, but it often works. Hope this helps. Mike

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Dan

12-09-2000 18:43:25




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 Re: 3-way Fuel Valve in reply to phil, 12-09-2000 17:08:54  
I have the same problem with the 3 way valve on my 1938 G. Seems like I might have changed it once too. It will leak fuel from the small tank into the lines when running on the large tank. It will also leak fuel into the carb when shut off so I do the same thing you do, shut off the needle valve by it. Don't know if these 3 ways are supposed to be that way or not.



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