Alternator conversion on a 2010

Thanks in advance -- Dave / Believer45

Dave / Believer45

~That probably means you have one of 3 problems..

1)- The belt is slipping...Make sure the belt is tight, not glazed, & not oil soaked..

2)- The battery is so dead & internally shorted that it pulls the alternator's output below normal...Try a different battery, disregard if the present battery starts the tractor.. With 12.3 static battery voltage this probably isn't your problem..

3)- The alternator is defective, or the internal regulator is malfunctioning...With the engine running at a decent speed listen to the alternator,, if it's charging it should kind of whistle.. You can also try to hold a wrench or screw driver to the alternator's rear bearing,, if there is enough magnetic force to attract the wrench it is at least charging a little..

~About all that's left is a bad connection to the #2 terminal, or the light bulb's resistance in the wire to the #1 terminal is too high, or ?.... With the engine running at a fast idle try running a wire from the [BAT] stud on the back of the alternator to the #1 terminal,, if it then charges your light bulb is too high a resistance [it needs to be about 10 ohms hot]....You aren't running that light & power to the #1 terminal from the coil side of the ballast resistor or resistor wire are you? If so you need to get the power from a NON RESISTED circuit..

~If it still doesn't work after verifying the above, try giving it some run time to see if maybe the slip rings are just a little oxidized & will self clean with a little run time..

~If still no decent output [should be around 14.2 volts nominal] take the alternator back to place of purchase & ask for a test or a replacement....

~Seeing as the #1 wire light goes out it sounds like at least one leg of the stator is producing some power..

~Here's the bottom line...IF, you have battery voltage at the #2 terminal, & enough voltage at terminal #1 [or the alternator is spun at a fast RPM] the alternator should be putting out around 14.2 volts into a normal operational battery load...

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I will try the direct wire around the light and see if that changes things. The power to the light comes from the battery through the ignition switch.

I will post results when I get to try it again.

Thanks again -- Dave

Is this a GM Internal regulated Alternator I take it?? Sounds like it is similar to the SI 10.

The battery voltage NOT running should be somewhere near 12.6 volts and at RPM BUT DEPENDING UPON THE BATTERYS STATE OF CHARGE AND GENERAL CONDITION, could rise to between 13 up to 14.6 volts or so.

You might measure the resistance of that idiot light, cuz like I say, I prefer the resistance in the circuit to the 1R (light alone or light plus a resistor) be at least 10 ohms HOWEVER if its too much, she may not excite the alternator as well or at a low RPM's.

These readings assume youre connected to a "GOOD" battery and its an internal regulated alternator. If a battery is well charged and in good shape and theres no lights or heavy loads, the output voltage doesnt rise to the max and may not be much over 13. If theres lots of lights etc or a good load and the battery is ran down like after a start, it should rise to the over 14 level. IF YOU HAVE A GOOD BATTERY

Test the resistance in that 1R feed i.e. the resistance of that idiot light and adjust as necesary (get a different lower resistance bulb or add some resistance) to get around 10 ohms but not much more. If its wired right and the idiot light goes off, sounds like that part is functioning.

Good Luck n God Bless

John T PS Sorry, I dont have access to any General Motors or other alternator data or specs, but these ball park figures (if its a GM 10 SI alternator??) should get you going.

Thanks again for your help - she should be a charging fool as soon as I get a chance to look at her.

Thanks as well for the blessings. I can use all I can get.

Dave / Believer45