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Hard starting 620

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jess

04-15-2000 21:22:04




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had carb rebuilt,new intake and exhaust manifolds,all new ignition parts.worked fine before.6 or 12 volt?is it positve ground?




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Don

04-16-2000 11:58:00




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 Re: hard starting 620 in reply to jess, 04-15-2000 21:22:04  
What has been said is all correct But I would like to add Use good jumper cables #4 wire at least Those cheap ones won't let enough amperage pass through them and the tractor will turn over slow The starter will heat up and could burn out
If it's turning over fast enough their good quality Jumpers



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Gman

04-16-2000 09:25:09




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 Re: hard starting 620 in reply to jess, 04-15-2000 21:22:04  
Jess-- I would like to add a bit to the 6 or 12 neg. or positive grd. I think 620's were 12 volt positive grd,but I always change them to neg. grd just in case I get caught were I have to jump with my Ford Diesel truck(sure don't want to screw it up)When you change your batt. to neg. grd. all you have to do is roll the wires on coil,make sure coil neg. wire is to the points,also rol wires on amp. meter,because they also are - & + .That bypass wiring putting 12 volts to point when starting is tricky,I run in to that on my 70 LP STD.,you got to get the 12 volts on coil side of ballest resistor(little porcaline deal).I purchased a parts manuel for the 70 and the wiring diagrams are in there made job alot easier,boy Im getting windt later gman

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clooney

04-16-2000 10:43:14




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 Re: Re: hard starting 620 in reply to Gman, 04-16-2000 09:25:09  
Gman, you don't have to change to (-) ground to be able to jump start from a (-) ground system... Just hook (+) on jump veh. to (+) battery post on tractor & hook (-) on jump veh. to (-) battery post on tractor. Just don't let any metal parts on either veh. touch each other (eg. bumpers etc.)during the jump process & you won't have any problems. The host veh. has no idea what polarity the tractor is all it cares about is polarity of the batteries.

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John T

04-16-2000 06:34:42




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 Re: hard starting 620 in reply to jess, 04-15-2000 21:22:04  
Jess, not much to add to Clooneys excellent description there. If she runs fine but is hard to start, I suspect the bypass starting circuit may be bad. What it does, like clooney said, is to provide the full 12 volts to the coil ONLY when the starter is engaged, then it goes back to the ballast resistor in series circuit so the coil only sees about 6 volts during normal operation. There is a wire from the starter swich that supplies full voltage to the coil when the starter is engaged, and if thats open or inoperative, the coil voltage is too low when ur cranking because that drags the battery voltage down. Its fairly easy to trouble shoot if there with a simple test lamp, so look for a wire form the starter switch that gets to the coil and determine if it actually gets there and supplies the full 12 volts (less cranking voltage drop) when ur cranking. If you need more post back this is failry simple but gets wordy when we cant draw you a picture. I am assuming (since you said hard starting, but I guess it runs ok) ur plugs and coil and wires and points and condensor are fine, but if not, they also could be part or all of the problem. Ol John T in Indiana

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clooney

04-16-2000 04:44:13




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 Re: hard starting 620 in reply to jess, 04-15-2000 21:22:04  
Jess, it had (2) 6volt batteries hooked in series to equal a (12) volt system. It had a (+) ground system. It also used a (6) volt ignition coil with (by-pass starting)the (+) side of the coil went to the dist. For the by-pass starting system the (ignition s/w) was wired through a (ballast resistor)to the (-) side of the (ign. coil)that would drop the voltage going to the coil to approximately 7-8 volts. There was a second wire running from the (-) side of the coil to a special terminal on the starter that would send (12) volts to the coil when the engine was being cranked to improve starting.

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