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HELP,NO BRAKES ON 310B BACKHOE!!!

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Rick B

04-06-2000 19:27:33




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I have a 310b (1985) backhoe that i need help with, I just put new brake lines on it because the others rusted and broke, I put all new o-rings in the master cylinder. Now I cant get them to work,I tried bleeding them but I can only get about 1/2 pedal on the right with one pump,with two pumps I get about 3/4 total no more after that, the left side gets no pedal on one pump,then 1/4 on two,then 1/2 on three and thats all.I'm not shure im bleeding them right or if I have other problems. thanks for any help anyone can give.

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Dave Wickman

04-07-2000 08:09:06




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 Re: HELP,NO BRAKES ON 310B BACKHOE!!! in reply to Rick B, 04-06-2000 19:27:33  
Rick, Assuming that the brakes were working right before you replace the failed lines I will try to help you out. If they were not your problem may be elsewhere, so let me know different if they were not? What is common when the brake valve (master cylinder) is serviced is during disassembly and assembly there is damage done to the inlet check valves. If you had any difficulty getting it apart or putting it together I would bet that is probably where your trouble lies. First lets make sure that we are getting and keeping the air out of the system during bleeding. You bleed the brake system like any other system on a truck or automobile and the thing that you have to watch is the oil level in the brake valve. The procedure in the tech manual will tell you leave the tractor run at a given RPM to replenish the valve with hydraulic oil while bleeding. What I have found is that if you can bleed the oil from the valve faster than it will fill and you could be pumping air right back into the system. So my cure for that is leave the right floor plate over the brake valve off (while bleeding) and remove the plug on top of the brake valve and fill the valve manually with hydraulic oil from a container. The tractor engine does not have to be run during bleeding doing it this way and the person you have on the seat pumping the pedal can watch that the reservoir stays full and can refill when needed. If you are sure that bleeding is not your problem then we will proceed to the next check or if you chose you can perform this check first. Take one of your old brake lines that you just replaced and make a cap plug out of it by crushing of welding the line shut right behind the line nut. Remove one of the brake lines from the brake valve and cap the fitting on the brake valve. The pedal on that side that you capped better be right at the top and rock hard and should not settle. Check the other side the same way. If the pedals wont pump up hard or if they settle your problem lies within the valve. If the pedal is hard and don't settle the problem is air in the system or possibly a warped brake disk (not common but possible). If the problem is in the brake valve it is most likely the inlet check valves and they can be serviced without removing the valve from the tractor. To service these valves, suck the oil from reservoir with a suction gun. Look strait down the fill Hole to see one of the two inlet check valves and remove it with a big screwdriver. Now here is where the mistake is usually made, if you take notice to the hole in the middle of the valve you can see the valve is tipped open with the brake pedal in the released position and when you depress the pedal the valve closes. What happen is these valve get damage when they are installed because if the pedal is not held down when installing them they get bent or they get bent when the spool is attempted to be remove before these valve are removed. When they are bent they will not seat. To prevent this from happening hold the pedal depressed when installing the new inlet check valves. If this is what happened don't feel bad you were not the first one to do it. Check these things out and let us know what you find this is common thing and other people can learn too. Good Luck, Dave W.

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Rick B

04-08-2000 17:19:06




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 Re: Re: HELP,NO BRAKES ON 310B BACKHOE!!! in reply to Dave Wickman, 04-07-2000 08:09:06  
Thanks Dave I capped the fitting and the pedals are right on top hard as a rock,I bled them out the right way i am shure,do you think that the left brake might be so badly worn that it just has to be pumped up several times to get it to the top. I havent been in the axle housing is there an adjustment inside or out that will take up the slack in the brakes.What do the brakes look like is it a band or is it a disk,the parts supplier shows both disk and band but we are not shure which is the brake and which could be the park-brake. THANKS GREATLY FOR THE HELP DAVE

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