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How would you break it in?

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Jack

03-20-2000 13:30:44




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I just rebuilt the engine on my 1956 JD 70 and was wondering what some of you do to seat the rings.Thanks,Jack(TN).




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Chuck

03-20-2000 17:00:44




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 Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Jack, 03-20-2000 13:30:44  
I have rebuilt many tractors....I'd suggest bringing the temperature of let it run for a short period and then hook it to a plow or bushog and heat it up...if you used JD rings with the chrome top you probably want seat it in without 200 hours usage anyway.....



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buckeye al

03-20-2000 15:04:10




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 Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Jack, 03-20-2000 13:30:44  
I agree with Haybaler! I run mine 1/3 to 1/2 speed for 'bout a half hour, no load at all. Then work them at varying speeds, never more than 1/2 load for around 20 Hrs. As the break in time passes 20 Hrs headed for 25, I occasionally increase the load to no more than 3/4, still varying speeds. I make sure I don't work him wide open throttle for more than a few seconds. Never lug it. The varying speeds is more important than many realize. The rings vibrate as they are pushed and pulled along the cyl walls. Each will have it's own specific resonant frequency and can cause very specific (sometimes undesireable) wear patterns on the cyl walls if allowed to constantly run at a given frequency. Varying the engine speed changes the vibrating frequency and therefore the wear pattern. By the end of the break in period the cyl walls are smoothed off, the rings are seated to them, the vibration is very much reduced and it's ready to run. I don't let them run at full load until after I drain the break in oil and change and filter. Give it fresh oil, a new filter warm it up to operating temp then let 'er rip! Many may disagree but that's my 2 coppers!

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ErnieD

03-20-2000 15:18:05




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 Re: Re: How would you break it in? in reply to buckeye al, 03-20-2000 15:04:10  
Good advice here. On a diesel powered unit I would be wary of long deceleration/engine braking. The fuel lubes the top ring. Give it a shot now and then going down the hill, if you can. Beware of cold stacking a new diesel, rings won't seat.



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Charles

03-21-2000 09:41:50




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 Re: Re: Re: How would you break it in? in reply to ErnieD, 03-20-2000 15:18:05  
What is "cold stacking"?



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ErnieD

03-21-2000 16:38:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Charles, 03-21-2000 09:41:50  
Diesels that are idled, not worked hard, and seldom reach operating temperature have this problem. The cylinder bores get coated with a lacquer not allowing the rings to seat and blow by compresson to the crank case. End result is hard staring and poor power due to low compression. Oil may be blown out the stack, known as slobbering.

The cure is to get it good and hot work at max horse power until the lacquer is worked off.

Standby generators and fire pumps that are "tested" for a few minutes each week and not put under hardly any load will cold stack. Then when they are really needed will stall under load because of lowered efficiency.

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Dave Wickman

03-20-2000 14:48:21




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 Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Jack, 03-20-2000 13:30:44  
Jack, Twenty Two years of engine building I always have answered this question with the same answer. Don't baby it and Don't beat it!!! Use it like it was designed to be used and the most important thing is be sure that the engine will reach normal operating temperature when it is being worked. Cold engines won't seat rings and new running tolerances are not good with cold engine blocks. Idling a tractor engine around is not the correct break in procedure. A varied load is a good way to break in and seat new cylinder rings and bores. A would prefer to go out and plow small patches where you can work the tractor and relieve it on the ends when you lift the plow to turn it around. The tractor engine was designed and built to work not idle. Same token do not lug it either. It is important that the operating temperature is up, to normal when you work the engine or scoring could result loading a cold engine, due to the pistons expanding faster than the cold block. Don't be afraid to warm it up and put it to work. Good Luck!! Dave

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G Taylor

03-31-2000 03:21:07




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 Re: Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Dave Wickman, 03-20-2000 14:48:21  
Amen



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Haybaler

03-20-2000 14:09:55




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 Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Jack, 03-20-2000 13:30:44  
Everybody seems to have a different opinion. Some say take it out and open it up and others say take it easy for a while before loading up. I took it easy on my 60 and 730 for a while and then pulled the ears back after @ 20 hours of easy running. I'm to big a chicken to put all that money in then lug it down first thing. These motors are usually tight after an overhaul and my opinion should be babied for a little while. Will need some load time to seat the rings however, and if it burns some oil right off the bat that is OK. My 730 still burns about 1.5 quarts a day if I pull it easy, but if I lug it down it might burn 1/2 quart HARD pullin' in a day, (never really figured that out either). Change the oil before you start to load it up. My 2 cents. HB

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ErnieD

03-20-2000 15:13:28




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 Re: Re: How would you break it in? in reply to Haybaler, 03-20-2000 14:09:55  
Running on Wide Open Throttle (WOT) will result in very low intake vacuum. Your valve guide seals may be a little leaky, so at part throttle high vacuum operation more oil is pulled through the seals.



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Duane

03-20-2000 15:31:13




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 Re: Re: Re: How would you break it in? in reply to ErnieD, 03-20-2000 15:13:28  
good theory for gassers



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