Advise on 148 loader install

I just purchased a 148 loader with a joystick for the control valve mounted on the right hand frame. I am researching the deatils for a proper installation on a 1963 3010 diesel with wide front. I have spent many hours going back through the archives on this site reading all the posts related to loader installation on the New Gen model tractors. I have found many recommendations and there has been countless bits of advise offered to those asking questions on this same subject.

Here is what I have found:

1. The installation of engine side rail reinforcements is highly recommended.
2. Bracing back to the rear axle will prevent breaking of the engine rails and/or engine mounting bolts.
3.There as many different ways to plumb the hydraulics as there are members on this board.
4. Keep the pins greased.
5. The best loader stand is no loader stand. At least none that Deere supplies.

I have a few questions to help refine installation :

1. I plan to install a Tee fitting in the main supply line just in front of the brake pedals. I will then put a quick connect there and run a short hose to the input port of the control valve. Does anybody have a part number of size specs for that Tee fitting? Then, should I run the outlet line to the filter cover (I would need to buy a cover for a Model 2640) or can I run it to the plug on the back of the tractor just above the serial number plate? What are the advantages or disadvantages of each.

2. I can not find engine rail reinforcements on JD Parts. Can someone recall a part number or recommend a certain size of steel to use there?

3. I can not find the picture that "Gary" posted showing how he braced loader mount back to the rear axle. Can someone direct me to that or post it here?

4. Have I missed any good recommendations or skipped over any good advise? All comments are welcome.

Thank you for your help and guidance.

Santa

Take the elbow to your Deere dealer (while buying the owner's manual) and have the parts counter pick out the T to replace it. Don't depend on figuring out what it is by parts catalog. I tried that, and went to another source by description. Their first try wasn't what I ordered, the second try was what I ordered and didn't fit. They ate the first one, I still own the second wrong one (about $35). Then I took the original elbow to Deere and the correct piece was under $15.

I plumbed my return to the transmission oil filter cover. I took it off and drilled and tapped 1/2" pipe thread. Deere does have a cover already made for that, first used for the 2640 so its in the 2640 parts book, runs a bit over $60.

Elbow and oil cover are academic if you have a late (side console) 3020 because then the neatest scheme is that Deere has a block that fits on the mounting of the rear remote valve that supplies hydraulic power and return in one piece. Also is listed IN the 148/158 operator's manual.

Returning the oil to the oil filter cover or rock shaft return gets it to the front pump sooner and doesn't depend on the transmission charge pump.

The side rail reinforcements are custom made to fit in the channel the rails are made from. There's no stock steel that would have that fit.

My loader is a MF-236 and I braced the side rails on the outside (had the room) with 2x4x1/4 steel tube. Haven't broken anything in several years of use.

Get the owner's manual.

Gerald J.

I have seen your pictures through a link on one of your postings in the archives. Good job on that restore/rebuild of the 4020.

MJ,

The loader and brackets came off a 4020. I know that for the 3010/3020 they need to be cut to clear the steps. I have modified steps and battery location so I will leave them uncut for now. May help with future resale if I seperate loader and tractor.

All,

The side rail reinforcement discussion can be lively depending on your point of view. I will be sure to use Grade 8 bolts, lots of them and put 1/2" steel bar stock behind the rails to beef it up some. My local JD Parts Counter man says I don't need them if I don't use it as a bulldozer. I figure it only takes once to break something. After all, it is 45 year old steel.

I will be using a custom version of JMS' rear axle braces. My wheels are in tight and I have a ROPS so the axle mounting will be "custom".

The hydro connection options are plentiful but I think I will go with the rockshaft pressure line at it's source by the brake pedals and the return to the filter cover or the rockshaft return line before it goes back into the sump.

Am I missing anything else beyond what has been discussed so far. I'm sure there is someone out there lurking in the fringe with something to throw in. Come on, don't be shy.

Thanks to all who have responded.

Santa

Thanks for all the replies and your welcome on all the gifts. Trust me on the coal thing. Don't even think about giving it to Momma. You will never recover from that one. If Momma ain't happy, nobody is happy.

I understand your instruction on the rear axle extensions but a picture is worth a thousand words just to confirm that I really do understand. One photo of the front end would be great.

What type of Tee did you use when you tapped into the pressure line for your aux valve? A description or part number would be helpful.

Thanks.

Santa

Stanford daughter, the PC guru- said she made a disc of all old pix- transferred them for me a bit ago. Tee is from the JD dealer- they know what you need, don"t have a part number, but they have done zillions.

This would be the overall view, same each side.

Since I now know that it was you that posted the pictures, I went through the Archives and found the original posts.

Unfortunately, the pictures will not display. I get the little red X in the box.

If you can, post them again here.

Thanks.

Santa