B running rough

I have yet to put a new carb kit in it. it's supposed to have a DLTX 34 all-fuel carb in it, but has a DLTX 67 gasoline carb. I had a post earlier about it and was told it should be ok. eventually I would like to get the correct carb, but as long as she'll run ok with this one, I'll let her go for awhile.

Thanks for any help.

So is it rough compared to other 2 cylinder tractors with single induction carb. not a model 50,520,620 etc. with dual induction or rough compared to your pickup truck ?

I'm a little gun shy about poor idle complaints on these ever since I had a fellow keep bringing me back an A carb. for an idle complaint. I finally made time to go over to his place and see for myself what was going on. I started it up and that A ran as good as any I have ever heard ? I said; sounds good now what's wrong with it ? He said; Well it doesn't idle like my 60 does. I didn't know he had a 60 !!! So I had to proceed to explain to him the differences between a 60 and an A. Turned out he never had a problem at all.

GOVERNOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT � (The link between governor and carburetor) --Free up and align all linkage to remove any binding. Adjust or renew any parts causing lost motion, and disconnect throttle rod at carburetor.

With hand control in full speed position (engine not running), adjust the length of the carburetor throttle rod so that the rod is 1/2 hole short from entering hole in carburetor throttle shaft lever when carburetor butterfly is in wide open position. Reconnect throttle rod at carburetor. ++++

The other is to test to make sure both sides of your carburetor (IDLE & LOAD) are open. There is a simple, no-wrench test for this, over at the JD-H Restoration Site (below). Once at the site, scan across to ARTICLES 1, and from the drop-downs, select CARBURETORS. On page 9 of that piece you will find the tests, and what is the meaning of the results. The entire piece on carburetors makes for an interesting read.

If a solution is not found after these two issues are behind you, please post back with the results and we go from there. (PatB)

• Restoration Site, JD H

Send me an email. I have something for you. You must be warned not to oversize any of the channels or orifices in the carburetor, and also -- that it is most likely rust that is blocking the path -- carb cleaners will not remove rust, not can you blow it out! At any rate, do not stick anything in the carb's little holes until you receive & read the Restoration Guide excerpt I will send to you. (Pat)

• Restoration Site, JD H

Have you tried driving it? If it runs good while pulling, but not at idle then you have the symptoms of plugged idle passages. No amount of soaking or carb kit installments will fix this problem. You will actually have to remove some of the drill plugs to drill out the passages.

Robert"s carburetor sells a good instructional video on the subject as well as the proper sized drill bits. There are two videos available, but if you must only buy one then buy the second one.

Make sure the throttle linkage is not binding anywhere. Also make sure there is a cotter pin on the top of the throttle control arm to keep the linkage from sinking too deep in the arm. This will cause binding.

If none of these seem to be the problem make sure you have a good hot spark. A weak spark can cause a multitude of problems.