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~First you need to know how the shut-off works. When the tractor is shut off, the oil pressure relieves, and the diaphragms in the assembly are free to return to their deflated state. This in turn allows the little plunger with rubber washer visible inside the glass to fully shut off, eliminating any possibility that the carb will overflow due to a leaky needle valve and seat. ~Oppositely, if the tractor loses oil pressure while running, the diaphragms inside will shut off the flow of fuel, thus "automatically" (however somewhat slowly it may be) shutting the engine down. ~In your case, there is NO oil pressure switch of any kind. In fact, the fuel shut-off itself is a kind of "oil pressure switch" as indicated above. ~Additionally, I have NO IDEA why you are running straight 10 weight in the engine, as this viscosity will thin out as the engine gets warm. If you live in Canada where it is like 0 degrees, then maybe 10wt. is sufficient. Generally, in any of the mid to southern states, you're supposed to run 10w-30 or similar. ~When you say "gaskets", do you mean the diaphragms? replacing these usually stops leakage of oil. If you have already done so, then I suspect an oil line fitting problem. Either the ferrules are bad, or you just have crappy lines. Yes, the oil line comes from the crankcase to the diaphragm and also to the gauge. ~put 10-30 back in it!
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