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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Learning to plow

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Johnny50

12-26-2007 04:21:31




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I just recently bought a #44 plow to go behind my JD50. Haven't plowed for roughly 50 years. Anyone know of any good books to read to learn how to plow. I've read the basics here on this site. but want as much info as possible before I hit the field in the Spring in front of a bunch of people. Just going to have fun.




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buck eye al

12-28-2007 09:38:18




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
I have a good "general" publication about 5 pages long that basically covers plow hitching and operation. Doesn't matter what color or brand, it lists the principles giving examples of both good and bad hitches and the consequences of each. It might be a bit large to just paste here so if you don't mind parting with your addrress, I'll scan it & send your way via Acrobat Reader.

I do some contest plowing & find it has listed very good and true information. Pretty much matches what Deere's plow books say too.

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buck eye al

12-28-2007 10:16:57




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to buck eye al, 12-28-2007 09:38:18  
DUH.... YDONTYA Poke the email mark at the lower right? Tried that. It works.

Sorry fer bein so dopey.

Later.



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Paul from MI

12-26-2007 18:57:32




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
Condition of points and landsides, moldboardcs etc. make a huge difference in a plowing job. You can do decent work with worn parts, but you'll fight the plow every foot of the way. Make sure your points are good, most important. Then adjust you hitch as shown in "operation, Care of farm Machinery as suggested. You should get decent results to start, then adjust as needed. Good luck,
Paul



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Texasmark

12-26-2007 08:24:06




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
Around here moldboards don't work very well because the heavy clay keeps them gummed up. So we use rotating wheel type plows.

There are still some JD plows referred to as "One Ways" whereby you have a row 2-20 or so discs of varying diameters of from maybe 18" to 30" situated at about a 30 degree angle from the tractor with a very heavy guide wheel following. This plow did a good job of flipping the sod as does the moldboard.

A more popular plow and easier to use is just a large/heavy disc harrow. These cover a lot of ground on the pass but you usually have to make several passes so you don't gain all that much over moldboards having several bottoms.

Mark

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machinery-man

12-26-2007 08:21:39




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
I thougt the 810 was the correct plow for the 50. Have been restoring some plows and books all show this.



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Mike M

12-26-2007 09:48:23




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to machinery-man, 12-26-2007 08:21:39  
Define "correct" ?

How could it be "incorrect" to use any pull type implement made before (or maybe even after) the tractor pulling it ? I just don't see how ? I see very few Farmers around me with all equipment from all the same era.



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John T

12-26-2007 06:35:58




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
Johnny, I always thought it was fun n I took pride in a good job of ploughing (some years back) . Some of the basics, most of which are covered below:

The plows left/rigth drawbar pull point and/or tractor wheel spacing needs to be set so the distance from the inside of the right furrow wheel to the first plowshares point/tip is the width of the plows i.e. a 12 or 14 or 16 inch whatever the plow..... What Im saying is the tractors furrow wheel (and a pull behind plows in the furrow wheel) or side to side drawbar plow hitch point needs adjusted so the width of the plow is cutting the correct first ( 12 or 14 or 16) width of land.

The plow needs adjusted level such that all its shares (like a 2 or 3 or 4 bottom plow) are cutting the same depth so the field will be level i.e. NOT have the first plow digging 8 inches n the last one only 6. Depending on the plow thats done by raising or lowering the furrow wheel (if it has one) and the other land/furrow wheels

In an IDEAL (I never had many lol) rectangular field a good farmer would alternate yearly his head lands and dead furrows so the field stayed fairly lever over the years. Say you had a rectangle area you wished to plow, the first year you would go to the dead center of the area and drive n plow right down the middle n then make an immediate right u turn and drive back the other way to throw the unplowed dirt right up against that other fresh plowed earth ending up with somewhat of a high spot middle hump. Then keep turning right at each end. Doing this you are always throwing the dirt in towards the fields enter. Thennnnn nnnnn the next year do just the opposite, start at the outsides of the area throwign the dirt towards the fields middle and you end up with a dead furrow in the middle where the high hump headland was the year before.

One thing I HATED was those curvy end bow shaped lands at the ends of the field where you raised the plow. Instead of CORRECT straight rows they ended up bow elliptical shape grrrrr r towards the middle. To make the rows straight at the ends one has to keep looking n driving dead straight ahead until the plow is alllll ll the way out of the ground.

Nowwwww w sometimes the field was plowed and then the fields ends plowed the 90 degree opposite direction to plow them. Howeverrrrr rrrr if the farmer was real good at plowing he drove all the way plowing aorund the field i.e. he plowed ends n sides BOTH buttttt ttttt he picked the plow up at the exact correct space/time to end up with those 4 angular diamond shaped lands to go n plow out last wooooo oo hooooo looked beautifuly buttttt ttt I admit I never was that good grrrrr rrrr

Looks like moldboard ploughing is a thing of the past n a lost art nowadays

John T (Good plowing wannabee)

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Duane Larson

12-26-2007 06:18:16




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
Johnny50,
I agree with Mike - get a copy of the 44 owners manual. The hitches on some old plows I have bought have really been messed with. You need to get the horizontal hitch properly lined up so you are pulling on the "center of draft" of the plow (which depends on the cutting width of the bottoms and the number of bottoms). The vertical hitch adjustment needs to be done so the weight on the plow is evenly distributed on the plow wheels. And you need to adjust your rear tractor wheels best as you can so the plow trails properly. This is all dealt with in the Operators Manual. Call 1-800-522-7448 (Deere publications) and order a copy for your No. 44 Tractor Plow. Or, you can try eBay, or Ed Tucker at 812-537-4622 for a reprint.

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Mike M

12-26-2007 05:49:31




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
The operator"s manual for the tractor should show how to set the tractor up. If I remember right ? And for sure a manual on the plow will. If your lucky,you will just need to adjust your wheel spacing and your drawbar height and length which can vary acording to ground conditions and hook it up and go.



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jhill52

12-26-2007 05:40:24




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
The John Deere books The Care and Operation of Farm Machinery has a great section on setting up and operating a plow. You can get them on Ebay. They were published from the 30s until trhe 60s. Try to get one from the early 50's.

Jerry



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johns48jdb

12-26-2007 04:54:18




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 Re: Learning to plow in reply to Johnny50, 12-26-2007 04:21:31  
just watch what other are doing if your at a plow day. main thing is to keep your plow level when its in the ground and try to stay in the furrow. there are two basic ways to lay out the ground. you can take a look at the lay of the ground and let it help make your decisions on where to start. always throw away from a ditch and fence row. if you have a low place you can break to it to help fill it up or break away from it to help create a ditch to drain the water away. you can lay it out in small strips or break the field all the way around. probably save money, energy, time and effort by breaking it all the way around. we always just went out about 20 foot and broke away from fence rows and broke that section out by turning around and going back the opposite direction from where you start. that way you'll end up with a plot of ground that is 40 or 60 feet wide and a furrow out in the field to break the rest of the ground from. sounds complicated. i think there is some discriptioons in some of the jd pocket note books on how to break ground. if you've done it before it will come back to you.

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