 This method of moving stuck wheels/hubs has �so far� worked for me. I this method earlier this month to remove the left wheel on my 46A pictured above. First thing to do is not get in a hurry. Moving wheels in or out might take some time. Before I work on a wheel/hub/tire project for the very first time on a tractor, PB Blaster is sprayed on the axle, hub, collar, and bolts every week at least 3-4 weeks before attempting to �move� the wheel. If you are not using the tractor, jack up the axle, rotate/turn the wheel, and spray with PB Blaster. Take a small sledge hammer and �tap� on the hub, collar, and bolts. Repeat this process several times. The key word when using the small sledge hammer is �tap�. One of the previous owners of my 43B splintered the cast center wheel. My favorite wife spotted the cracks when we picked up the tractor. When I carefully removed the wheel, it fell apart in 2 pieces. I was fortunate enough to find another cast center wheel for only $125. I always use a rotary grinder with a wire wheel to �brush� the axle splines on both sides of the hub. Use a grinder to remove any �mushrooms� on the end of your axle splines created by previous owners with big sledge hammers. A log chain is threaded through the holes in the wheel. I use an old mechanical jack to �pull� the hub/wheel by applying pressure on the axle. Rotate/turn the wheel and spray with PB Blaster. Take a small sledge hammer and �tap� on the hub. Apply more pressure with your jack. Repeat this process until you can �wiggle� your wheel off by hand. After removing the hub/wheel, you should finish brushing the axle splines. Use a small wire toothbrush to clean inside your hub. With the axle splines and inside hub clean and shiny, you should be able to �wiggle� the wheel back on the axle. If the wheel cannot be moved by hand, I check the splines on both the axle and inside the hub for �burs� and/or �rough� spots. I will use a flat file on the axle splines only if absolutely necessary. I use a half-round file for the hub splines. Hubs are cheaper and easier to replace than axles. If the wheel is �snug� and cannot be easily moved by hand, I use a big sledge hammer with a 12� handle and an oak block. Oak blocks are less expensive to replace than cracked hubs or cracked wheels. Believe me when I say the recoil off an oak block is far less than the recoil of a cast wheel. Put the oak block against the hub and �hit� the oak block. Rotate the wheel and hit the oak block. Repeat this process until you position the wheel to your satisfaction. The process described above works fine for me because it causes me no bodily harm, frightens none of the farm animals, requires no help from my favorite wife, and keeps the neighbors from hearing my lack of vocabulary. Hope this helps. Good luck!
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