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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Push Rod Tubes / Details?

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Kendog

11-07-2007 09:17:02




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As I prepare to tear into a 36BO with water-in-oil syndrome, I'd like to understand some push rod tube details, as it may likely be the issue. -Finding an unstyled B service manual is in the works.

-How many will an unstyled B motor have? (I've heard 2, and 4.)

-How long are they? (I've heard 22" but that sounds too long.)

-Anything further I should know on topic, ex; pressed in, use epoxy, ...?

Thank you. -Ken

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Green Relics

11-08-2007 11:18:25




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 09:17:02  
Kendog, And as Pat B will tell you. Get a parts book for your tractor will make your repair life much easier. John



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CalJim

11-07-2007 21:31:25




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 09:17:02  
I changed out the push rod tubes when rebuilding my 36 B and will add the following.....
I was advised to change them when I had the head off, turns out they were in good shape but you can't tell until you remove them.
The tubes themselves are not all alike, Some are thicker than others. These were all Deere parts, the ones I ordered from them were thinner, but I found some NOS ones that were thicker like the originals. The thinner ones did not want to seat tight enough.
I would advise using a sealant like permatex around them, I used a small amount of titanium putty.
Fill with water and check for leaks before you continue. On the subject of manuals I can say this....when restoring an unstyled tractor you need to use the early styled shop manual, the operator's manual that came with the tractor and alot of common sense. CalJim

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John T

11-07-2007 11:18:08




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 09:17:02  
Im as bad as you, I replaced them on my 1938 Unstyled B n think?? there were only two. NO WARRANTY CUZ MY HARD DRIVE IS CORRUPTED N OVER FILLED.... Regardless, it really seemed to help make mine drive n push in easier cuz I put them in the freezer the night before..... We used a set of Snap On bushing drivers just the right size

John T



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F-I-T

11-07-2007 11:43:09




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to John T, 11-07-2007 11:18:08  
Parts book shows 4 up to S/N 96,000, 2 after that.

third party image



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Mike M

11-07-2007 12:46:57




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to F-I-T, 11-07-2007 11:43:09  
Also at some point of the 3 cyl. head casting numbers listed after key #14 for 96,000 and up I think one of those has no push rod tubes.



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Kendog

11-07-2007 12:33:13




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to F-I-T, 11-07-2007 11:43:09  
F-I-T, thanks for the schematic! Could you please re-post that entire page -OR- email it directly to me?

That will help with the tear-down this weekend.

-Ken // [email protected]



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F-I-T

11-07-2007 15:31:31




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 12:33:13  
Check your e-mail.

Frank



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JDAOS

11-07-2007 10:01:06




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 09:17:02  
Don`t forget that the tube end that goes toward the pistons is smaller in diameter than the end towards the valve cover.



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Mike M

11-07-2007 09:48:34




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 09:17:02  
All you need to do is remove the valve cover and if they are leaking you should be able to see it and/or a trail. My unstyled B had 4 and I replaced them with the head on as it was just reworked except for those tubes. Never leaked before or even a year later then all of a sudden they decided to leak ? If I ever pull the head off a tractor that has them again it will get new ones right then and there ! I also had trouble with the accuracy my cyl. head had it's push rod tubes holes bored at. It musta been way off from new as they varied alot and some of my tubes fit too loose and were hard to sealup. I took the new ones back out recleaned everything up and used JB Weld to seal them along with what swaging could be done on there.

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F-I-T

11-07-2007 09:38:17




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to Kendog, 11-07-2007 09:17:02  
I'll tell you what I "think" I know, which may or may not be accurate as it is depending on my rapidly aging memory....

Under serial number 96,000, the head should use 4 push rod tubes. They are only as long as the head is deep. Originally, they were probably installed using white lead as a sealant, then the one end was "swaged" or rolled to flare against the head to seal. Today, folks typically use home-made tools like a threaded rod with a formed mandrel face to press the tube into the head, and then to flare and form it in place all in one operation. I think I would use a soft sealant like a tube-type Permatex, which should stay put and move with the parts as the head expands and contracts from heating and cooling.

I think the best you will do on a "service" manual is an I&T type book, though I think I recall seeing a service manual offered for the late styled "B"s at one time.

Frank

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Jason Z in MO

11-07-2007 19:57:25




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 Re: Push Rod Tubes / Details? in reply to F-I-T, 11-07-2007 09:38:17  
Frank,

I think your memory is doing great!

My B sn 81291 has 4 tubes. The originals were steel, the Deere replacements are brass. When I had my head off I inspected them closely and couldn't find any problems, even looking the portion inside the water jacket. I decided to change them anyway and glad I did. When I drove them out I found the pitting was worse then I could see. The two outside tubes had holes. The outside tubes are close to the edge of the head casting and were rusted through where a chuck of casting scrap (can't think if the word) got lodge between the head and tube.

I cleaned up the scrap pieces of casting and used a bushing driver to install the new ones. The tubes are tapered and the small end goes toward the block. I used permatex as Frank mentioned. Finally, I have a long punch/drift with a tapered shaft. I "seated" the tubes with a couple of blows with a hammer. This worked great to swag or expand the tube into the casting.

Deere didn't produce a service manual for the "B" under SN 96,000 but I have one and it really does help. There are times when you have to use common sense because some things did change. The Deere manuals are excellent but expensive...

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