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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt

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B Bob

08-16-2007 21:41:26

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Am trying to remove the clutch lever bolt to replace the bushing. Have removed nut, soaked the bolt with loose juice and rigged up a puller gizzmo but the bolt won't budge. Questions: Is the bolt just a smooth bolt or is it threaded into the First Reduction Gear Case pivot ear? Is it safe to apply heat to the pivot ear? I don't dare beat directly on the bolt out of fear of breaking the casting.
Any suggestions? Thanks, Bob

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730virgil

08-17-2007 20:42:15

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to B Bob, 08-16-2007 21:41:26

is the clutch lever bolt on 730 the same way? mine has lots of wear and is pretty sloppy and it needs to be fixed. i sometimes have to shut tractor off to shift gears.

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machinery-man

08-17-2007 07:50:27

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to B Bob, 08-16-2007 21:41:26

I can see that the C clamp will work, I always used a ball joint fork to wedge it out. This put even pressure on both sides..DON'T hit on the end of the bolt as you could break off the flange.

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gurneejoe

08-17-2007 05:37:44

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to B Bob, 08-16-2007 21:41:26

I used an air chisel gun with the round tapered punch tool and it slid right out with almost no resistance. I also used this set up to get the bolts out of the hubs holding the cast wheel centers. They pop right out with little if any damage to the bolts. I tried this after much heating and beating only to find out this method and about two minutes time and they were all out.

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Chris in MD

08-16-2007 21:49:54

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to B Bob, 08-16-2007 21:41:26

It's just pressed in there. The bolt has raised splines which hold it in there.

Absolutely no beating should be done on it.

You're going to need to make a puller that will put at least 2-6 tons on the bolt, using the clutch handle as a point for pushing the bolt out.

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B Bob

08-16-2007 21:56:53

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to Chris in MD, 08-16-2007 21:49:54

Thanks, Chris. The puller consists of two 3/8"x2"x6" plates with all-thread and nuts. The bolt head passes through the plate allowing pressure to be transferred to the Lever and the other one pushes against the bolt end. I guess I'm gun-shy about applying too much pressure.

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Chris in MD

08-17-2007 08:30:53

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to B Bob, 08-16-2007 21:56:53

Don't worry about it, just take it easy and tighten evenly. If it looks like the steel is not strong engouh, upgrade it. It's at least 5 tons of pressure

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wilamayb

08-18-2007 08:55:03

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to Chris in MD, 08-17-2007 08:30:53

What type of formula did you use to figure out he need exactly 5 tons of force? Just wondering? Would you share the formula?

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Kurt_JDB

08-17-2007 04:52:54

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Re: 1950 B Clutch Lever Bolt in reply to B Bob, 08-16-2007 21:56:53

Bob,

I have been able to remove mine using just a large "C" clamp and socket.

1 remove cotter pin clutch operating rod etc
2 back nut off until face of nut is flush with end of bolt.
3 Put large socket over head of bolt, socket big enough so bolt can move around under it.
4 arrange "C" clamp with one end on nut, and the other end on socket.
5 Tighten "C" clamp until bolt backs out.

Adjust rig as necessary. A little light tapping with a brass hammer after bolt moves should be OK to remove it the final bit. No pounding, though.

Good Luck,

Kurt

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