320 ignition

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Look brighter, be brighter�����Safer too.

After looking for a little more wattage in the garden tractor headlights, antique tractor head/tail lights, stop lights for some vehicles, modern tractor flasher warning lamps etc. Here�s what out there. The price is about the same for most lamp upgrades vs. the dimmer originals so why not?

12V 15mm bayonet single contact base. There is the 1156 an ordinary 25W lamp everybody takes home. There is also an 1195 lamp with 35W and a much improved 795 or 795X in 50W halogen. With the 50W in applications operating continuous with an all fully enclosed all plastic lamp assembly. You may have to drill a 3/8 vent hole on the bottom/side and top opposite side of the lamp enclosure to let some of the heat out via convection airflow.

12V 15mm bayonet dual contact base. There is the common 1157 with 27W/9W or step up to the 1188 with 50W/32W.

6V 15mm bayonet single contact base. Tired of the dim 1142 or 1143 at 13 or so watts? Even the so so 1129 with 17W? How about a 1521,7564, 122450 or an A12036? They are all a hairy chested 45W.

6V 15mm bayonet dual contact base. The normal 1158 is 17W/5W. Brighten up with an 1188 with 34W/24W or an 1116 with 32W/21W.

Of course cleaning & shinning up the lamp�s reflector & lense is always the 1st course of action.

When handling any incandescent lamp, halogen or not. The lamps will last long if it is 100% clean and oil free. Your hands; no matter how �clean� are still oily. A wipe with a dry shop rag is little better. Alcohol is an excellent oil solvent and evaporates away quickly.

Lights that just won�t �brighten up� often suffer a poor return path through the vehicle/machine�s chassis. Running a separate return from the lights back to the battery is sometimes the best solution.

I got an electronic ignition for my 320.wondered do i use copper core wires or automotive

Copper core is what Id use UNLESS the vendor specifies otherwise as some?? Elec Ignition units
with high energy high voltage coils might want some ballast/resistance in the plug wires but Im unsure what vendors n what systems. Im sure EITHER should do just fine as that elec ignition unit (esp with a high energy coil) as compared to a magneto have plenty of spark energy. With a high energy high voltage coil and running wider plug gaps (as typical on elec ignitions with HV coils) you need good insulation quality plug wires to avoid HV arcing

i am converting it to 12 volt since the ignition kit is for 12 volt.do i use a resistor for this setup? thanks

It depends on what coil you use. First of all to get the most bang for the buck and take full advantage of that elec ignition, I highly recommend you dont use any stock 6 or 12 volt coil but match the switch up with a high energy high voltage 12 volt (NO ballast required) coil (per elec switch makers recommendations) and run a wider plug gap. Whatever plugs were the stock specified should still work fine. If you insist on your old 6 volt stock coil you need to add a voltage dropping (12 to 6) external ballast resistor after the ignition switch in series with and before the coil. NOTE on that set up the 12 volt DC required for the elec ignition unit would be derived right at the ignition switch and NOT after the ballast (cuz thats only 6 volts) The other stock coil option is to use a full true 12 volt coil NO BALLAST REQUIRED.

Make sure to match your battery polarity with whatever polarity the new elec switch is !!!!! !!!!!

If youre changing to 12 volts change the light bulbs to 12 volts and if youre just now changing battery polarity dont forget to Polarize the genny before you fire her up. If it has an ammeter and youre changing battery polarity its leads need swapped or else it will read bass ackwards.....

Did I mention to MATCH BATTERY AND ELEC SWITCH POLARITY lol dont fry that new expensive elec switch

John T