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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Wheel Spacing

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B-Bob

07-30-2007 07:21:03




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JD 1944 "B" and the real wheel on one side is spread wider then the other side. How do you slide the wheel on the spline???

Also, where do you add the transmission oil??? and where do you test the transmission oil level??There seems to be lots of "fill" passages.




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matthies

07-30-2007 19:51:17




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 Re: Wheel Spacing in reply to B-Bob, 07-30-2007 07:21:03  
If your tractor is driveable, loosen the hardware a bit and drive it around. This has worked to loosen the hub from the axle.



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James Howell

07-30-2007 10:06:02




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 Re: Wheel Spacing in reply to B-Bob, 07-30-2007 07:21:03  
First thing to do is not get in a hurry. Moving wheels in or out might take some time.

Before I work on a wheel/hub/tire project for the very first time on a tractor, PB Blaster is sprayed on the axle, hub, collar, and bolts every week at least 3-4 weeks before attempting to �move� the wheel.

If you are not using the tractor, jack up the axle, rotate/turn the wheel, and spray with PB Blaster. Take a small sledge hammer and �tap� on the hub, collar, and bolts. Repeat this process several times.

The key word when using the small sledge hammer is �tap�. One of the previous owners of my 43B splintered the cast center wheel. My favorite wife spotted the cracks when we picked up the tractor. When I carefully removed the wheel, it fell apart in 3 pieces. I was fortunate enough to find another cast center wheel for only $125.

I always use a rotary grinder with a wire wheel to �brush� the axle splines on both sides of the hub. Use a grinder to remove any �mushrooms� on the end of your axle splines created by previous owners with big sledge hammers.

A log chain is threaded through the holes in the wheel. I use an old mechanical jack to �pull� the hub/wheel by applying pressure on the axle. Rotate/turn the wheel and spray with PB Blaster. Take a small sledge hammer and �tap� on the hub. Apply more pressure with your jack. Repeat this process until you can �wiggle� your wheel off by hand.

After removing the hub/wheel, you should finish brushing the axle splines. Use a small wire toothbrush to clean inside your hub.

With the axle splines and inside hub clean and shiny, you should be able to �wiggle� the wheel back on the axle. If the wheel cannot be moved by hand, I use a big sledge hammer with a 12� handle and an oak block. Oak blocks are less expensive to replace than cracked hubs or cracked wheels. Believe me when I say the recoil off an oak block is far less than the recoil of a cast wheel.

Put the oak block against the hub and �hit� the oak block. Rotate the wheel and hit the oak block. Repeat this process until you position the wheel to your satisfaction.

The process described above works fine for me because it causes me no bodily harm, frightens none of the farm animals, requires no help from my favorite wife, and keeps the neighbors from hearing my lack of vocabulary.

The fill plug for the transmission is located below the right axle. The fill plug may have either a 1� square head or a �� square opening. The fill plug �sits� at about a 45 degree angle on the lower right side.

After removing the fill plug, fill with gear oil up to the bottom thread. I do not remember how many gallons of gear oil for my 43B.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

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duck64759

07-30-2007 10:05:12




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 Re: Wheel Spacing in reply to B-Bob, 07-30-2007 07:21:03  
My guess is "and put them into the other hole". Or holes. Only a guess on my part.



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B-Bob

07-30-2007 07:59:48




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 Re: Wheel Spacing in reply to B-Bob, 07-30-2007 07:21:03  
I missed this part " and put the to in te other whole". What does this mean?



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HAPPY DEERE

07-30-2007 07:38:18




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 Re: Wheel Spacing in reply to B-Bob, 07-30-2007 07:21:03  
there should be a hub on teh wheel with 3 bolts on it remove bolts and put the to in te other whole crank them in to pop it lose then i take a comealong and carnk it to whereever you want it



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