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Do you get a small spark between the points if you break them manually, switch on? If so, you have power to the points. If no, bad battery to main wiring harness to connectors on back of switch. Fis wiring. Do you have that same power to the coil, stopping when you break the points, if so the wire is intact. If no, fix wiring. Does a high tension spark jump from the plug wire to a good ground 1/4" when you break the points? If so you have spark. If no, suspect coil, but check for a bad high tension wire first. If no power from the switch to beaker points, use a jumper lead to supply power to points and re-check. My bet is a poor conector on the the original wiring to the new ignition switch. Pretty typical on the 200 series. JD even had upgraded Sta-Kon connectors to replace because the old connectors would get loose, increase the resistance on each terminal, make the switch draw too much power, burn the switch out, then you'd replace the switch, and by doing so, jostle the old connectors into temporary connection, think you had it fixed, then it would konk out just as you started to mow, or worse, blow snow. BTDTGTTS (Been There, Done That, Got the T-Shirt)
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