1939 B ? - Removing countershaft

I'm ready to remove the countershaft. The service manual gives removal instructions for tractors 96,000 to 201,000. My tractor serial no. is 75,600. The transmission is a four speed and the countershaft is shorter (no outide 5/6 speed gears).

What is the procedure to remove the countshaft?

Any help will be appreciated.

Ken

Ken,

Under the reduction gear cover should be a bearing housing or quill. It should have a casting #B333R. (I remembered because an ear was broken off mine and I had to replace it.)

In this picture its the larger housing below the 1st reduction gear stub shaft.

I am curious how the 1st/3rd gear (left most on the counter shaft) was orientated. Did the step in the hub face the case (legft) or toward the center (right)?

Hope this helps!

I have removed the right hand bearing cover (pulley side) of the countershaft and removed the snap ring from the bore on the left (flywheel)end of the countershaft. The countershaft has bearings pressed on both ends. When the right cover is removed,the shaft drops down and the countershaft idler gear is now against the maincase and the left end bearing of the countershaft is free and away from the left bearing race.

In order to remove the countershaft, the manual says to "drive against the left end of the countershaft with a soft hammmer until the countershaft can be pulled out the right side of the case." These instructions are for 96000 and above. The countershaft on '39 Bs is shorter and does not extend out to accept the 5/6 drive gear. I assume the procedure for a '39 B (75600) is the same except a drive bar is needed.

Do I use a bar and hammer and drive the countershaft toward the right side which hopefully will force the left bearing off of the countershaft? I assume that the idler gear, other gears and spacers against the case will provide the shoulder to drive the bearing off the countershaft.

I apologize for being so lengthy and will appreciate you taking a minute to digest this long missive. Ken Reese

Have you removed the axle housing and differential? Much easier from the rear instead of the top. Not even sure if it will come out with the differential in place.

The following is from memory but I'm pretty sure correct. I will run out to the shop in a minute and confirm.

Once the right had cover is removed B333R that end should be free. It holds the bearing cup. The shaft won't pass through the hole but you need the clearance. The left side of the shaft is pressed into its bearing but not real tight.

Support the right side so the bearing isn't damaged on the case. Tap the left side of the shaft through its bearing. I used a brass drift. That should free both ends.

I don't think the left bearing has to be removed now but just in case... To remove the left hand bearing from the case. Just drive it out with a large socket. First, check to make sure there isn't a snap ring on the inside the case. I don't remember for sure.

The gears and spacers just slip on the splined shaft. You should be able to reach in and pull them off. Pay attention to orientation and order. The idler gears are retained by the bearing pressed on the right side. It doesn't have to come apart to remove the shaft.

Thinking about it, I'm sure the differential has to be removed.

If you still have my number, feel free to call.

I'm not an expert but I did this not so long ago.

Jason

Looking at the countershaft, I think I could remove the entire countershaft without removing the gears if the differential was removed. I intend to remove the differential eventually to check the bearings, etc. so doing this now may be the easy answer to removing the countershaft without beating on the end to remove the bearing on the left end of the shaft.

However, I should be able to remove the countershaft without removing the differential - but it appears it would be a lot easier on the gears and spacers, etc. to remove the diffential first.

Will attack the task on Monday. Jason, I may need to call you to discuss.

Ken

Ken,

For some reason I was thinking the counter shaft used a ball bearing on the left. I pulled my old parts out and its a tapered roller.

With the differential out of the way you will be in good shape. Here is shot of the transmission with the banjo (axle housing) and differential removed. There is good access from the back.

Notice I used vise grips to hold the spring loaded shift fork stops fully retracted so I could easily slip the shaft into place.

I'm curious on how the left gear is installed on your counter shaft.

Jason

the left bearing on the countershaft is a tapered bearing.

Good photos of the transmission and the primer job looks great. I, too, used Vice Grips to hold the pawls out while removing the shifters from the shifter shaft. Later on, Deere added a drilled hole on each pawl to allow for a cotter pin or wire to hold the pawl away from the shaft during disassembly and assembly.

I will look at the left gear on the countershaft and get back to you with details.

Ken

I'm just wondering if that is primer on the insides or the special paint for castings called Gylptol (sp?) hopefully it holds up under oil. And also are you going to clean it off to bare metal on the gasket surfaces ?

Thank you!

The paint is called Epoxy Primer from Iowa Paints. Its not a two part primer like other epoxy primers I have read about but the stuff is tough. I did some tests and not much will cut it. As a matter of fact, I have been using brake parts cleaner to wash the grease and oil off the primered surfaces.

About cleaning of the primer on gasket surfaces. I haven't on all surfaces. Thinking about this again now, after your comments, I guess I'm relying on the durability of the primer not to break down and create a leak path.

I sure hope this won't be a problem! This is my first project this deep. Right now I need to paint wheels and mount them... So I'm a lot further along then this picture shows.

Jason