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I'm facing the same questions about an '86 Ford truck that isn't rusted, just the engine has developed a clatter that sounds unhealthy. White smoke sounds like water/antifreeze leaking into a cylinder. Not healthy. I have no experience with rebuilding a 3020 diesel, so I don't have a cost estimate. Going to side console 4020 ups the ante. Last year I was comparing 3020 and 4020 in central Iowa. Most of the 3020 for sale were grubby or very high hours and narrow front and missing 3 point arms. By going to a gas 4020 I got more tractor for my money though I did have to tune it a while with plugs, wires, timing, and carburetor parts. But I know gas engines, not diesel so that tuning wasn't a great problem. It takes 12 or 15 hp to run the hydraulic pump in the PS transmission which I've heard truly hampers the 3020, but isn't so much of a pain with the extra two cylinders in the 4020. The tach on my 4020 shows about 5200 hours, but when it developed charging problems last summer, it turned out to be that the generator pulley was worn until the sides were parallel, a sign of many more hours of operation. The engine bolt show its been apart since the engine was last painted. A new generator pulley fixed the charging and the engine doesn't consume any oil so my 35 hours a year should get a long lifetime of service. 3020 parts in the CT catalog:
clutch plate $70-132 (rebuilt)
pressure plate assembly $409-475 (rebuilt)
release bearing $9
Diesel sleeve assemblies $525-599
gasket set $166
Rod bearing set $45
Main bearing set $130-140
Valve set $270
Rebuilt head $576-675
Rebuilt hydraulic pump $700
They say they carry injection pumps too but don't list their prices. There's several prices because there were two or three different diesel engines in the 3020. Engine casting numbers will be important when shopping for parts. Looks to me as if the rebuild of the 3020 may cost nearly as much as the difference between it and the 4020, providing the 4020 doesn't need the same attention too soon. That's the rub. My 4020 SR works fine with the MF-135 loader I adapted. Digs dirt like a bulldozer. I extended the loader valve controls with rods that are supported on the inner corner of the right fender and so are as convenient as a side console, but don't take up my one remote. So I don't have to take the loader off to plow or disk. I tapped into the 4020 hydraulics. Gerald J.
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