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Babit beasrings

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Ben Hodges

12-18-1999 12:36:45

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Can someone tell the kind of material to use in rebabitting old bearings on a thresher. Any "how to" would also help Thanks Ben

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STEVE R

12-19-1999 04:14:19

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Re: Babit beasrings in reply to Ben Hodges, 12-18-1999 12:36:45

Gerald is correct in what he said about engine rod bearings except that you did not mention rod bearings. I myself have not done any engine bearings so they may be smooth and need to be tinned as he said, but a plain babbitt bearing will have grooves, preferably tapered, machined in the castings to hold the babbitt in place, therefore the tinning is not needed. Also the block will need to be preheated before the babbitt is poured into it. As for the plug, aluminum would work without the suit as babbitt will not adhere to it. Also the plug and the block would have to be set up in a jig that would keep them centered to each other, or if this is a hassle simply pour it a 1/4" under or solid and have it machined to size. This is the most accurate way to do it. As for the elecrtic range, true babbitt will require more heat than a cook stove could provide. Also when setting this up in a jig you will need to provide a divider between the to halves of the bearing, assuming tha

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Gerald J.

12-18-1999 19:38:29

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Re: Babit beasrings in reply to Ben Hodges, 12-18-1999 12:36:45

First you need some babbitt metal. There are 25 or more varieties for various applications. I don't know which off hand is best for engine rods. Some data books should say. I've bought babbitt in the past couple years from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com), last I looked they carried only ten varieties.

You need a jig to hold the rod and a turned plug that is the same size or a bit larger than the crank shaft and polished as well. You have to clean the old babbitt out of the rod and cap and then tin the steel surfaces with 50-50 lead/tin solder. Then you have to coat the shaft with something like soot to keep the babbitt from sticking to it. Then melt and pour the babbitt. When I was a kid, my dad melted babbitt in a small cast iron skillet on the electric kitchen range. There is a little more clearance between the shaft and the bearing than the thickness of the soot, but not much, so often you need to bore or scrape the babbitt to give running clearance, probably at least .002" diameter, maybe .001" / inch of shaft diameter.

That's how I think its done, though I've never put babbitt in connecting rods. I was thinking of rebuilding worn rocker arms that way, that's why I bought some babbitt.

Gerald J.

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HMan

12-18-1999 17:41:12

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Re: Babit beasrings in reply to Ben Hodges, 12-18-1999 12:36:45

Ben, My experiance with babbit is limited, but maybe I can be of some help. It is mostly lead,with tin and a little antimony,(I think).It has some other ingrediants,(my machinery handbook is at work so I can't look it up to be sure). As far as "do it yourself"it use to be common. All you'ld do is make a mold, heat to melting and "pour" it, then get you're friendly machinist to bore it to size. An older machinist I work with said you use to buy it at a hardware or auto parts. But I'm guessing if you went to an Ace or AutoZone the kid behind the counter wouldn't have a clue. They might think your're asking for a Hooker.It's a shame there aren't any real hardware stores anymore isn't it?! There are folks that can do it for you, however, I've never used any, but some of the others on here might suggest someone. HMan

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