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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Manifold Bolts remove?

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Sam Schudi

10-18-2006 03:36:06




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How can I remove the exhaust manifold bolts that look like they have been in there for 60 years? Haven't tried yet, but I have been soaking for a couple days but with my luck, I am sure they will break off and I will have a mess.

Then what do I do? Drill out and retap? Where can I get new bolts?




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CalJim

10-18-2006 21:54:14




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Sam Schudi, 10-18-2006 03:36:06  
Hello,
I agree with Mike's approach, it works. I had
the same problem on the manifold of my 44 B.
Nuts were rusted so bad they were just round
clumps of rust. The studs had no threads showing.
Heated with torch until they glowed, then pour
water on them until steam is gone. Did this a
couple times, couldn't believe the profile of the nut and stud "came back" to where I could
get a wrench on them. CalJim

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Mike M

10-18-2006 10:00:12




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Sam Schudi, 10-18-2006 03:36:06  
You said bolts ? so I'm going to assume ? you have a numbered series with the two piece manifolds. But either way it really doesn't matter if they have been there for 60 years then it's a safe bet the valves haven't been touched for 30 so I'd pull the head and work on it and if/when the bolts break don't worry. Just set it up in a milling machine and drill out the old bolts and chase the holes with a tap, then resurface the manifold gasket surface while it's all set up (a must do for the numbered series anyhow) Do some much needed overdue valve work and your all good for another 60 years ! Don't be tempted to drill those bolts out on the tractor or with a hand drill as that's a sure way to ruin the holes ! This way may sound like it takes forever,but it really doesn't as those head come off really quick and you end up with a superior quality job done.

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Duane Larson

10-18-2006 08:51:15




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Sam Schudi, 10-18-2006 03:36:06  
Sam,
I don't know what year or model tractor you have, but some tractors use studs and some use cap screws. If your's uses studs, the end of the stud which fastens in the head has an interference fit and the other end (which the nut goes on) does not. In addition, they have the correct length of thread which prevents the stud from getting into the push-rod sleeve used on some models. After getting some manifold studs from Deere that were the wrong length, I have been getting mine from Correct Connection - they have the correct length and threading.

If your's uses cap screws, they are odd lengths not normally available at bolt stores. They aren't very expensive from Deere, and those seem to fit.

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Sam Schudi

10-18-2006 10:57:39




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Duane Larson, 10-18-2006 08:51:15  
Sorry I forgot to mention this is a 48 A, that I am planning to rebuild. So all the manifolds have to come off to do it right.

Thanks for all you help,
Sam



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Mike M

10-18-2006 12:23:20




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Sam Schudi, 10-18-2006 10:57:39  
That originally should of had studs because some of those go into the water jacket and may have fragile push rod tubes under them. You can just cut the nuts off and remove the manifold if it still has studs. You may even be able to reuse the studs without removing them. I almost always pull the head off of those A's too as it is far quicker than pulling off the gov. and fanshaft to get it off the studs.

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55 50

10-18-2006 07:57:01




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Sam Schudi, 10-18-2006 03:36:06  
Any machinery dealer, hardware store or farm store "worth their salt" will have the new bolts. I like Fleet Farm for my new bolts.



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Mike Aylward

10-18-2006 07:11:23




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 Re: Manifold Bolts remove? in reply to Sam Schudi, 10-18-2006 03:36:06  
Sam, there are many ways to do this and most all will work but this is what I have been doing for years with very good success. First, take a torch and heat the BOLT ONLY and let it cool naturally. After this heat cycle, heat the bolt AND the area around the bolt and while both are hot take an ice cube and rapidly cool the bolt. (Be very careful here as steam is created, and you are also very close to the heated area. It is best to use welding gloves or tongs to do this.) In a very few instances you might have to repeat this but in many cases after you have done this you can remove the bolt (after everything has cooled) with your fingers. If the bolt is broken flush the old "weld a washer, then a nut" trick will work well, and if it doesn't, this same heat cycle will do the trick as a rule. I used to cringe when a rusted bolt had twisted off but I no longer fear them. Hope this helps. Mike

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41JDb

10-18-2006 19:36:17




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 Pressed or threaded? in reply to Mike Aylward, 10-18-2006 07:11:23  
Im going through this same process with my 41B with studs and was wondering whether the studs a are pressed in or screwed in? I was thinking of cutting the nuts off then taking the studs off once the manifold is out of the way? Does this sound right? Thanks Al



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Green

10-18-2006 20:03:46




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 Re: Pressed or threaded? in reply to 41JDb, 10-18-2006 19:36:17  
41jdb,

The studs are of the threaded type.



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