48 A hydraulic question

I am considering buying a 3 point hitch from Saginaw County Tractor Parts (thx to Glenn in TX for referring them several hundred posts ago) and wondered if I could hook up to my JD F145 3-16 semi attached plow.

When you are finished laughing, the A has a new all gas engine and is on rim gard loaded 15.5s. I have a good double 16 IH for backup and my real farm plowing is done with a JD F145 4-16 and a JD 5520 MFWD cab model. The fields will get fit even if the A can't handle the 3-16s. It might draw a second look at some plow day in stubble. I also want the hitch for other uses.

Thanks for the input.

Mark

It is interesting to understand the operation if you draw the remote cylinder function out of the side of the valve box. I agree that the plow is too big and the lack of control would be a problem. I have a good drag plow of the correct size. The comments about fake and add on hitches has convinced me to pass on the hitch. I certianly would not want to damage my rock shaft equipment as John cautioned. I have a modern 3 point tractor. Besides the back of my tractor is clean and it is the best way to board these old boys. A photo of the business end is attached and I think I will leave it this way. Yeah, it is a Model 60 seat and battery box and I need some studs and acorn nuts.

Thanks for the information and saving me $475 on something I likely would not be happpy with.

Mark

John, your postings to others were used to get my "genny" wired right, Thanks.

http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/tphotos/a37570.jpg

If you want that A to pull 3 x 16 fast enough to flop the dirt over well, I hope youre not plowing real deep and have loose or sandy soil and maybe even run a dual on the left side????? but hey "go for it" sounds like things Ive tried before lol

On the Hydraulics, in the normal stock power trol configuration you use selector valve/spools so the hydraulic prressure flow is diverted to EITHER the internal cylinder to raise the rock shafts (your added 3 point) orrrrr rr to operate a remote hydraulic cylnder via those couplers buttttt tttt nottttt ttttt both..... And if I recall correctly when I tried something like you wanna do years ago (raise rock shafts PLUS operate a remote cylinder) it acted like the other gent posted in that the rock shaft had to lift fully BEFORE any pressure was then sent to the remote cylinders. AND DONT FORGET UNLESS YOU ADD IT ITS NOT LIVE HYDRAULICS EITHER

Is that a steerable semi mount type plow where you raise the front with the 3 point and then the tail/gauge wheel lowers (with remote cylinder) to lift the rear of the plow out of the ground??

I dont think Hydraulic things are gonna work real well unless n until you add a Baker Valve on back the Power Trol PLUSSSSS SS I dont like to put any hard heavy pull on those rock shafts anyway, I see them more for lifting cultivators or using something light like a grader blade or small mower AND ESPECIALLY since youre trying to pull 3 x 16 off them !!!!! ! anddddd dd theres no real draft control similar to what a real 3 point hitch uses,,,,, ,,,,,

Dont believe me however on the hydraulics you need the Frankster or another Hydraulics Guru to explain all the Baker Valve n Hydraulics stuff but I just dont see an A with an add on (fake) 3 point doin all that well trying to use a semi mount steerable hydraulic lifted rear wheel type of plow ESPECIALLY a 3 x 16????? ??

Hopefully someone will prove me wrong and youre off to the races.

Good Luck n best wishes

Let us know

John T

I'm not sure how the plow would react ? The lightest end should lift first ( cyl. dia. may effect this too )then when it gets to the top the other end should come up too. Your going to have to try it to find out I guess ?