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jdemaris
09-07-2006 20:20:48
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Re: 1020 injector pump rebuild/timing in reply to Kelly Gerber, 09-07-2006 14:28:42
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I guess my opinion differs a little from MSB's. Like anything else, you need knowledge and skill to repair the pump. But, there is nothing very special about it. It is, to put simply, just a little high-pressure oil pump with several control features. I don't know what your skill level is - so I have no idea if you are capable. But - anyone that is skilled enough to rebuild a hydraulic pump, alternator, do a decent valve job, rebuild an engine, etc. can certainly rebuild a Roosamaster/Stanadyne injection pump. I guess I was lucky to have worked in shops in the 60s when just about everything was done in-house. We rebuilt our own injection pumps (we had a test stand but rarely used it), valve jobs, piston knurling and regrooving, rod and pin fitting, piston hydraulic pumps, cylinder head and flywheel refacing, carburetors, magnetos and magnet charging, starters, alternators, etc. Now, most big shops I know of send just about everything out and repair nothing - they are just parts changers. Keep in mind, that when a pump is sent to a pump repair shop - they do NOT have access to the tractor it goes on - and therefore - they need a test stand to mount the pump on, test and calibrate it. When you DO have the tractor, all the necessary adjustments can be made right there on the engine. In regard to special tools? You need very little. In reality, there is ONE tool that I regard as essential. That is the fluted wrench needed to extract one bolt (Bristol Wrench). Some people have managed without it by grinding on a Torx bit. I have the correct wrench, and you can buy your own for around $15. In brief - you take the pump apart and visually inspect the parts. Most close fitting parts cannot be checked with micrometers because they work on clearances less than a 1000th of an inch. Therefore, you check by looking and/or feeling for wear. When parts are worn, it's quite evident. As far as settings? Fuel-delivery? You do it quite simply with an air-chuck and a 2" micrometer - it's easy. It's also not necessary if the machine was okay before - and - it also can be changed later, if desired, when assembled and mounted on the engine. Timing? The only timing to check - in regard to the pump internals is the timing advance. That is easily checked on the running machine after all is assembled. To answer your question about why the machine can - or cannot be used after relieving the blocking. It will run, and perhaps run fine for a long time. But eventually, the pump will self-destruct from metal-filings - caused by metal-to-metal contact of parts that are supposed to be held apart by a piece of plastic.
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