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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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730 d

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jimmy fletcher

08-28-2006 18:05:56




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Well I got my 730d back together after being down for 2 years. I adjust the clutch when I realize when I engage the clutch the fly wheel moves inward. Is that supposed to happen? Then we decided to at least fire it up just to make sure it will run. It started up but it rev up and we couldn't idle it or stut it down with the shut off point. I had to use the decompression lever to shut the tractor down. Can anyone help me these two problems? Thanks

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coastiejim

08-29-2006 17:37:27




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 Re: 730 d in reply to jimmy fletcher, 08-28-2006 18:05:56  
Jimmy,

Just got my brothers 730D back together. Runs great and is very satisfying. As for the end play the guys are correct it sounds like your flywheel is not on all the way. If you need to get to the inside thrust washer you will have to remove the timing gears and the flywheel side main bearing. I had excessive thrust play also and found the inside thrust washer gone and caked on the screen to the oil pump.

As for your RPM problem like the guys said a stuck rack is a possibilty. Also if you had the govenor and housing that bolts to the side of the block for the control lever off there could be a problem too. When you put the control lever back into the front of the govenor it must engage the vertical shaft or the govenor cannot control the engine speed. It is possible to miss the vertical shaft so you may want to check it. If all is good I'd recheck the initial adjustments and rack settings as per the book again both at idle and WOT. Hope this helps!

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jimmy fletcher

08-29-2006 17:43:39




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 Re: 730 d in reply to coastiejim, 08-29-2006 17:37:27  
thanks guys for the help. It is nice to get help on this forum.



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F-I-T

08-29-2006 14:50:21




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 Re: 730 d in reply to jimmy fletcher, 08-28-2006 18:05:56  
third party image

>>Well I got my 730d back together after being down for 2 years. I adjust the clutch when I realize when I engage the clutch the fly wheel moves inward. Is that supposed to happen?

Proper endplay with good, serviceable thrust wahers is .005"-.010". You should be able to loosen the two clamping bolts and then use the steel nut to move the flywheel. That's it's only purpose, because it does not carry any force after the clamp bolts are tightened.

>>It started up but it rev up and we couldn't idle it or stut it down with the shut off point. I had to use the decompression lever to shut the tractor down. Can anyone help me these two problems?

This is pretty indicative of a stuck fuel rack. To check and free-up, remove the top cover on top of the block, and using finger pressure only, you should be able to move the shaft with the nuts and threaded rods on it from left to right. Don't change any of the adjustments as you could lose the synchronized relationship of the two pumps. If that does not help, check that the rack return spring is not stuck or broken. It is under the pipe plug cap on the right hand side of the block in line with the rack.

Here is a phot that I posted the other day for a fellow that was having the same problem.

Frank

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mjbrown

08-29-2006 15:58:29




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 Re: 730 d in reply to F-I-T, 08-29-2006 14:50:21  
How does one check the inner thrust washer without tearing into the tractor too much? It looks like changing it involves pulling the timeing gears (from the JD shop manual).



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F-I-T

08-29-2006 16:10:27




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 Re: 730 d in reply to mjbrown, 08-29-2006 15:58:29  
Yes, I'm afraid that what's you have to do. I was never all that certain that they improved that design when they changed from the original 70D thrust plate sandwhiched between the to fiber washers. At least on a 70D you could remove the flywheel and small timing cover and service those thrust washers.

Maybe a 730 owner could comment as to if that inner thrust washer needs frequent inspection or replacement, and if not, maybe that's why they changed the design.

Frank

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mjbrown

08-29-2006 10:39:03




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 Re: 730 d in reply to jimmy fletcher, 08-28-2006 18:05:56  
Your crankshaft endplay is too great. You need to loosen your flywheel and bump it on to the crank shaft a bit more with some one on the other end pushing or bumping the crank toward the flywheel. .005-.010 " is called for but few are.
As to rpms, either your linkage is not adjusted right or your governor isn't working right. The linkage is easier to fix so I hope that is what it is. Check to see what your rack travel is when you move the throttle lever from idle cut off to full throttle and back with engine off.

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