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Yes, but. His question said that he had rebuilt the engine AND the governor. He did not say that he rebuilt the carburetor on a perfectly running engine, and then had problems. He touched the governor and then had problems. If he said that it was hunting before the governor work, then most likely the idle passages are suspect. However, anytime someone says they touched the governor, I check the governor rod. To not do so is akin to diving into a carburetor repair without even checking that the air filter is clean. Still need to hear if the idle screw has any affect, but re-installing the governor case on the main case, any adjustment of the governor shaft endplay, weight replacement, bushing replacement, or bearing adjustment/replacement, should end with checking the proper length of the speed control rod. The book says so, too. The governor might well be working in action and reaction, but the improper rod length might cause the carburetor to ingest more fuel than the governor meant to signal, the engine overspeeds, the governor slams shut, the carb closes too far, the engine slows to a stall, the governor signals open, the engine injests too much fuel, the governor detects the overspeed, it slams shut, rinse and repeat. Now, to the owner. Take the rod loose at the carburetor and hold the carburetor butterfly still with your left hand and see if when you hold the throttle plate steady if the engine tries to stall. If it runs fine, it is the governor causing an over reaction. If it cannot sit still against the throttle stop and idle correctly, it is most likely on the carburetor side. I just think there are a lot of things to check without even using a wrench before you can even attempt to properly diagnose this case. Frank
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