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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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dltx carb

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al rice

07-20-2006 08:04:49




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overhauling carb from JD A having trouble removing brass nozzle from cast body, seems to really stuck in there. any easy ways to remove this?




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Spoker

07-21-2006 15:22:54




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
I came across and old Schabler DLTX carb book once that had a very interesting tool to remove the nozzles. It look like a brake spoon that you adjust you old rear brakes on your car. this tool you pushed down on the nozzle from the thoat of the carb. Marvel Schabler manual instructions. I myself use a home made puller. I use all thread that will go into the nozzle and place a washer and nut on the all thread. I also place a deep well socket on the other end and place a nut and washer to pull against the deep well socket. The nozzle comes right out with out any problems. I have had to apply a small amount of heat once or twice to get them to give up the milk.

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Earl-IL

07-20-2006 20:01:12




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
I usually heat & remove the brass plugs ,drill the passage & put the carb body in caustic for a couple off hours. I use the OTC. method of pulling on the solid nozzle. On the 47-649 nozzle (with the bypass tube) found in the DLTX 16,63,& 51 I use a 3/16 rod through the nozzle with a nut in the venturi area and a slight amout of pressure pulling. I heat the carb stem some and I let cool & repeat.The little bypass is soldered on so I try not to overheat.But you can resolder. The btm tip of that nozzle is thin.The last I checked were about $40.The main thing is lots of patience. Earl

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Mike Aylward

07-20-2006 12:46:59




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
I"ll add my two cents here. I routinely put a small amount of heat on the NOZZLE ONLY. It really doesn"t take a lot. Just getting it warmed up will release the old varnish and if there is a ridge of rust the expansion cycle will release it easily. I have an old slide hammer puller that I use and have several inserts made for it for the various sizes of nozzle holes. I use a simple tapered wood screw and screw them into the nozzle a little ways. I use a screw that does not bind. Usually about two very light "hits" on the slide hammer will pop them right out. If it won"t another heat cycle does the trick. This in no way hurts the nozzle or the carburetor body. Most times you can"t tell anything has been done to the nozzle. This has worked very well for me for many, many years. Mike

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John T

07-20-2006 10:51:51




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
Al, I do it same as Glen and have hade some reallyyyyy yyyyy tight ones pull out fine no problem or damage. I tap the nozzles center fairly deep then have had to use two or three nuts jammed together so the threads dont pull or strip and flat washers and extracted it right out. Clean out all the lil side holes and clean n buff n polish her all down smooth and dont forget the bottom center spring on reassembly to hold the nozzle back up in place.

Good Luck, if you damage it simply buy a new nozzle !!!!! !!

John T

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F-I-T

07-20-2006 11:54:12




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to John T, 07-20-2006 10:51:51  
The only thing I would like to add is that if it is tight, abd you intend to completely go through the body, air it out well, and apply some soft propane heat to it after it has had a chance to gas off any fumes. Get it up to "spit-boiling" temperature, and let it cool all the way down to ambient. I have even cooked them on my barbeque grill. That heat/cool cycle will likely part those two dissimiliar metals and the nozzle should come out much easier. In some cases I have had them fall out as I picked up the carb from the bench and turned it over. BTW, that's why there's a spring in the bottom because as the carb was fitted new, those nozzles could jiggle out of position from field work and engine vibration, so the spring kept upward pressure on them.

Frank

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John T

07-20-2006 12:48:15




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to F-I-T, 07-20-2006 11:54:12  
Frank, You or Duane may know?? Once Robert Beaver indicated (If I recall correct???) something like theres supposed to be a certain amount of free space/area in between the nozzle and the carbs bore (reason for the spring as we mentioned) to serve as a reservoir well of available gas for when the throttle is cracked open suddenly, sort of like a quasi accelerator pump. Looks like if that area between the nozzle and the bore is completely corroded shut, there wont be any reservoir of gas???? or is it just the gas in the center of the nozzle that serves as the "accelerator pump" upon a cracked open throttle??? What ya think???

John T

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F-I-T

07-20-2006 12:53:28




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to John T, 07-20-2006 12:48:15  
John:

I think that reservoir is the area between the high points or rings/ridges and the wall of the bore. They form a small cylinder outside the central bore that can be sucked in when the port flow dictates. When you get all of that debris/rust flakes/seed parts/dirt accumulated in that area, then you either have a diminished volume of fuel in storage, or that and the holes are also clogged shut.

Frank

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P Browning

07-20-2006 09:29:56




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
dab -- that is really CRUDE as you describe it! Do it that way and you can just pick u the phone -- call your dealer -- and order a new nozzle!!!

That IS NOT what Glen told you! Do you want some pictures? If so, email me and ask -- they will be on their way in not time. email is

Don't use an E-Z-Out & a vice grip -- TERRIBLE!!!

(PatB)



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Mike M

07-20-2006 10:48:33




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to P Browning, 07-20-2006 09:29:56  
The pictures in the JD carb. book of the OTC tool looks like no more than a tapered spiral fluted easy out on the end of a slide hammer. I bought a small slide hammer kit from Harbor Freight years ago and it had an end like this on it and it worked GREAT ! Also good on those blind hole throttle shaft bushing in an H or the duplex carbs.



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Duane Larson

07-20-2006 12:11:35




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to Mike M, 07-20-2006 10:48:33  
The original OTC nozzle puller used a patented design for the threads which screwed up in the center of the nozzle. Instead of being "V" shaped threads, they are shaped like the Christmas trees we used to draw in grade school, with a hook shape on the threads. When it is screwed into the nozzle and pulled on, the threads dig into the nozzle and they will hold against a vice grip with a large slide hammer. I think OTC still uses that clever thread design in some of their tools.

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Glen in TX

07-20-2006 09:08:55




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
Tap it for a machine screw and pull it out using some flat washers and a pipe sleeve. Less chances of cracking, breaking or bending it that way and easy to do. Sometimes you will twist it some and pull it out with the tap. The threads won't hurt it any. A EZE out can stretch it and crack the end ruining it since it's just soft brass. Deere had a OTC (Owatonna Took Co.) tool kit that had a screw in tap and small slide hammer to pull them out.

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dab

07-20-2006 08:43:40




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 Re: dltx carb in reply to al rice, 07-20-2006 08:04:49  
I assume you mean the main nozzle. I use a easy out, put vice grips on it and tap with hammer. You also can thread the end of the nozzle and make a slide hammer. You won't hurt the performance just dont go to big. I can't remember the size right off hand but just fit a drill down the existing hole and then refer to a tap chart to find something close.



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