Has anyone ever taken apart and worked on the wiring of a John Deere FNR switch for a loader/backhoe? Mine is a JD 410D, but I think this switch was used on other models as well.When putting the machine in reverse it started blowing the 20-amp FNR fuse, so my son installed 30-amp fuses 3-times and they all blew, then the machine would no longer go in reverse and of course the 30-amp fuses did not blow again. When my son made me aware of the problem, I found that the plastic insulation on the electric reverse solenoid (on the reverser) was worn to the point that it began shorting-out. That"s why the fuses were blowing. Then, when my son installed the 30-amp fuses, the solonoid worked another time or two, but continued shorting and drawing more and more current, so the wiring in the FNR switch burned in two (because of the 30-amp fuses he installed). The FNR switch passes 12-VDC to the solonoid. I replaced the electric reverse solonid (about $90.00), but the FNR switch is $396.00 according to my Deere parts dealer. The wiring portion of the FNR switch has a plastic plate that is fastened to the metal housing by 4-small rivets. I can"t find anyone locally that has the ability to re-rivet, so I"m going to drill-out the rivets, work on the wiring, tap the metal housing areas where the rivets were with a 6-32 tap, then install four 6-32 screws. Anyone ever done this before? Can you see any reason why this won"t work? Thanks!
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